Pages 19-195 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 1
Information
Title - Pages 19-195 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 1
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/6/1/4
Date - 8 Sep 1824-27 Feb 1825
Scope & content - Pages 19-195, entitled 'Journal part first': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing the voyage on HMS Blonde from England to Valparaiso [Chile], stopping at Madeira [Portugal] and Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] and sailing round Cape Horn [Chile]
This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the first of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For descriptions of the subsequent parts of the journal, 27 Feb 1825-15 Mar 1826, see RHS/Col/6/1/5-8
Written on rectos only in McRae's hand. Occasional corrections in pencil in McRae's hand
Summary of contents:
(8 Sep 1824) Tuesday. Saying goodbye to Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London], taking a coach from Charing Cross to Greenwich and walking to Woolwich. Meeting Mr Turner [John Turner, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society] returning to London. Boarding HMS Blonde at 2pm
(9 Sep 1824) Mr Ball [Thomas Ball, first lieutenant on HMS Blonde] enquiring what McRae thought of his messmate: 'I made answer I had no fault to find with him yet', being convinced his companion was 'a good man', having come recommended by the master. Ball informing him that a single cabin would not be available until Portsmouth and promising to move McRae's plants to a more suitable location, and to 'do his best to make me comfortable'. Sailing at 2pm. Anchoring at Greenhithe at 4pm
(10 Sep 1824) 'Two lighters alongside in the morning with ordinance [ordnance] stores, such as guns, gun carriages, powder & shot, small arms etc'. Going on shore at 10am 'to be out of the way', but finding the place 'dull' and returning on board for dinner
(11 Sep 1824) Everyone busy setting up gun carriages. Going on shore and walking several miles via Gravesend. Returning in the evening
(12 Sep 1824) Wet and rainy, but clearing up later. Everyone busily employed, despite it being Sunday. Going on shore after dinner and walking to Northfleet. Returning in the evening
(13 Sep 1824) A wet day. 'All hands busy as usual at the guns, fitting locks etc'. 'Spoke again about the plants, but nothing done'. Going on shore to enquire about a promised box of seeds
(14 Sep 1824) More midshipmen coming on board with their luggage. Fine weather. Going on shore. Waiting in vain for the captain [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] to board the ship
(15 Sep 1824) The captain and 'his lady [Elizabeth Mary Chandos-Pole Byron], with several of their friends' visiting the ship at 11am. The captain ordering McRae's luggage to be put in the bread-room, and the boxes of plants on the quarter deck, 'but as to myself, must be contented with a hammock, for want of being able to spare me no better accommodation', with space for working in the steward's cabin. 'On his coming to upwards of a dozen casks filled with different kinds of agricultural seeds belonging to the Sandwich Island [Hawaii, United States of America] people, he got angry & wanted to know if they were mine'. Byron asking 'if I thought they had been recommended by the HS [Horticultural Society]. I thought not, then it must be that Reeves' [?John Reeves, naturalist and tea inspector in China, fellow of the Horticultural Society] doings'. McRae intending to send the boxes on shore in Portsmouth
(16 Sep 1824) The captain asking whether McRae was happy with the location for his plants. McRae feeling satisfied at being able to attend to the plants himself without having to ask assistance from anyone else. 'While repairing the boxes this forenoon, someone of the sailors stole a ball of twine from me, which I tried to recover by offering them rum, but of no use'
(17 Sep 1824) 'Foul' easterly wind: 'no prospect of getting away'. The captain 'with his lady & friends sailing about the river'. Going on shore until dusk
(18 Sep 1824) The ship unable to sail due to fog. The Royal Sovereign steamboat arriving from London at 10am to tow the ship to the Downs
(19 Sep 1824) Initial fog clearing enough by noon to sail: 'went as far as the head of sea-reach by 7, when the steamer left us'. Anchoring for the night. The captain's wife and friends intending to stay on board until Spithead
(20 Sep 1824) Cold and foggy. Sailing at 5am with a light breeze, and reaching a rate of 9 1/2 knots by 10am. Arriving at Deal at 1pm and sending the pilot on shore. A fine view of the French coast. Passing Dungeness at 5pm at the rate of 3 1/2 knots: 'wind & tide against us'. Passing Hastings ('well lighted up') at 8pm
The surgeon, Mr Davis [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] asking how to bring back sugarcanes: 'I readily told how I intended to bring some myself, which was by cutting the ripest canes into junks [chunks] & pitching both ends, then packing them up in a box among dry sand'
(21 Sep 1824) Cloudy with a strong breeze. Passing the Isle of Wight. Anchoring at 7pm off Bambridge Point in light rain. Several 'women & boys' seasick during the day
(22 Sep 1824) A fine morning. Sailing at 6am towards Spithead. Firing a salute of 17 guns to the port admiral Sir George Martin's [commander in chief at Portsmouth] flag. Anchoring at 8.30am. Seeing two ships anchored at Spithead. Receiving two boxes from the Horticultural Society at 12pm with seeds and papers, and two letters from the post office. The captain, his wife and friends, intending to remain on board until the ship left Spithead, visiting the shore at 1pm.
'Perused my instructions hastily [for the instructions given by the Horticultural Society to James McRae, 16 Sep 1824, see RHS/Col/6/1/1], & did not feel myself satisfied with the 4th & 20th articles. The 20th leaves me to the judgement of Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] to permit me to draw bills on the Society if he thinks proper, & the other binds me to impart what I know to the officers on board'
(23 Sep 1824) A fine morning with southerly winds. The sailors' wives ('about 30') being ordered off the ship at 10am
The captain returning on board at 1pm with Mr Hill [unidentified] and Mr Wilkinson [John Wilkinson], the latter intending to settle at Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]. The captain showing them around the ship and complaining about 'the great quantity of seeds & other things sent by them [Hill and Wilkinson] on board, & gave them to understand that it was my opinion the seeds would never answer [grow]'. Hill asking McRae in a 'rather unpleased manner' whether he thought the seeds would survive: 'I frankly told him that I thought they would not. His lordship [George Anson Byron] attacked me about them, as he had considered the HS to be the advisers in recommending them. Hill merely said that the Society did say they might try [to grow seeds at Hawaii]'
Receiving another letter from Mr Curtis [?John Curtis, entomologist and a fellow of the Horticultural Society of London] and a letter from Joseph Sabine, on his way to Portsmouth. Writing to John Turner about the 4th and 20th articles in his instructions and sending the letter by the evening post. 'All hands busy taking in stores etc'
(24 Sep 1824) A fine morning. Stores being brought in. Everyone on board being ordered to get dressed, the officers in full uniform, ready to muster at 12pm for the port admiral's inspection. The admiral arriving at 12.30pm with some naval officers, and shortly afterwards Sir W. Curtis [William Curtis, British sea biscuit manufacturer and politician] arriving 'with some ladies'. The captain and the first lieutenant showing them around the ship. The men being ordered in a line for inspection and a roll call: 'even myself was not exempted'
The captain returning on shore at 3pm. A fine afternoon. Going on shore to purchase 'a spade & water pot & some other articles'. Being 'much taken up with the place'. Some rain in the evening
(25 Sep 1824) Hazy, with a northerly wind. Most of the officers on shore, and 'the people employed stowing various articles away'
(26 Sep 1824) Cold and hazy, with a northerly wind. Sunday prayers read for the first time since leaving Woolwich, and the 'church time' announced at 10am by tolling the ship's bell. 'All hands below' hastening to the quarter deck, where seats were placed, with the sailors' wives on one side, 'the marines on the other, facing the preacher, & the sailors in the rear', and the captain and the officers near the pulpit. The reading being from the first book of Corinthians 1:21: 'it pleased God by the foolishness of preaching to save them that believe'. The captain and most of the officers going on shore
Temperature 43°-55°. Keeping the plants 'shut up' all day. Since boarding the ship, having given 'free circulation of air' to the three boxes of hardy fruit trees, '& only twice to the store ones, & that only for about an hour at a time, when the sun was strong upon them', lifting the tarpaulin slightly in the morning sun and covering them again in the afternoon
(27 Sep 1824) Rain followed by fine weather. The 'commissioners' coming on board at 10am to pay the crew their months' wages in advance. 'Also Jews with slops [clothes, in particular ready-made, cheap garments] of an inferior quality at a very dear rate, but which is more imposing upon the unfortunate sailor, who is obligated while about to leave his country to purchase these articles at any price, & is soon to receive counterfeit money, if he has any change to receive from these dishonest people'. 'The women' being ordered to go on shore, 'excepting six, who is to go the voyage in the ship'. Receiving a letter from John Turner. Temperature 45°-50°. The leaves of the plants beginning to fall off in the cold
(28 Sep 1824) A cold morning followed by a fine day. All 'the Sandwich people (in number eight)' coming on board the ship with Mr Bing [unidentified] and Mr Hill, the latter two returning on shore in the evening. William Curtis sailing several times around the ship. A lighter [barge] bringing the captain's sea stock for the journey in the evening: 'Governor Poki [high chief of the kingdom of Hawai'i, royal governor of the island of O'ahu, also known as Boki and Kama'ule'ule] laughed heartily when he saw the captain's cow slung over the ship's side into the hold'. One of the anchors weighed at dusk for the morning. Temperature 41°-47°
(29 Sep 1824) A fine morning. Sailing at 6am with HMS Niemen in a moderate breeze. Passing HM brig Chanticlare [Chanticleer] from the Mediterranean and HMS Thetis from the coast of Africa. Passing the Isle of Wight and sailing down the channel with a strong breeze. Cloudy. Losing sight of land at 5pm. Temperature 47°-62°
(30 Sep 1824) Fine but cloudy weather with a fresh south-westerly breeze. Parting company with HMS Niemen at 7am. Seeing two 'strange sails, a brig & a schooner' at 1pm to the west. The wind increasing. Passing Falmouth. Sailing towards Madeira [Portugal], 'the ship pitching very heavy, & shipping a great deal of water through the ports & sentinel holes', men bailing the water from the lower deck with buckets from the officers' cabins. Reefing the topsails at 6pm. Temperature 55°-62°. 'The plants shut up all day, owing to the bustle on deck'
(1 Oct 1824) Squally and breezy. Reefing the topsail at noon. Passing the Scilly Isles. The wind increasing to gale force. Reefing the topsail and furling the main sail: 'the ship at this time laboured so much, that I never experienced the like before'. Temperature 49°-65°
(2 Oct 1824) The south-westerly gale continuing during the night. Sailing towards the land, which 'on approaching proved to be the Lizard [Lizard Point, Cornwall]'. Anchoring in Falmouth Roads at 12pm. The captain and Lady Byron going on shore, 'her ladyship & infant [the Byrons had six children at this point; the youngest, Frederick Byron, was born in 1822] being very seasick for the last two days'. A fine afternoon. Temperature 56°-62°
(3 Oct 1824) A fine morning. Everyone busy drying their bedding. A light rain shower in the evening. Despite it being Sunday, the carpenters busy caulking the gun-ports and settles. Temperature 56°-62°. The plants seeming 'no worse' following the bad weather
(4 Oct 1824) A mild morning after a rainy night. The carpenters still busy 'caulking different parts of the ship'. Going on shore and passing through Milor churchyard [St Mylor church, Mylor, Cornwall], 'an ancient, small building' covered with ivy. Seeing fine specimens of Asplinium morainum [?Asplenium marinum] growing under hazel bushes in the shade of an old stone wall
Reaching the town of Falmouth via Flushing, crossing via ferry for a fee of a halfpenny. The town 'dull' and the country 'naked & barren'. 'Most of the women I saw here wore pattens [wooden clogs or overshoes worn to protect shoes from wet or muddy ground]. It is a common saying among the inhabitants that it rains eleven months out of twelve. Everything is much dearer than at Portsmouth, home-baked bread one shilling [for] a quarter loaf'
Rain showers throughout the day and constant rain in the evening. Temperature 59°-64°
(5 Oct 1824) A mild and hazy morning with light showers during the day. The crew employed taking in fresh water and washing the lower deck. Temperature 59°-64°
(6 Oct 1824) A rainy night and day. One of the sailors dying from apoplexy at 5am: 'at 8 I saw him sewed up in his hammock with no other covering excepting the check shirt, which he had on when he died. At about 3pm he was put into his coffin & sent on shore to be buried at four. What has induced me being so particular in giving this account is because he was the first I ever saw die at sea'. Temperature 59°-60°
(7 Oct 1824) Foggy and rainy. Sailing at 6pm, but mooring again due to the lack of wind. Temperature 58°-62°
(8 Oct 1824) A fine but cool morning. Sailing at 10am. Colliding with HMS Astrea, but without much damage caused to either ship. The ship running aground on the soft sandy shore, but being freed after about two hours. Sailing from Falmouth with northerly and north-westerly breezes. Passing the Lizard [Lizard Point, Cornwall] at 6pm, 30 miles north-west
McRae expecting 'every minute the total destruction of all the plants' during the 'confusion' of attempting to free the ship, but the plants suffering no damage other than 'being wetted with salt-water' and some of the lids on the boxes being damaged. Concluding that large boxes were much better for protecting plants than small, light boxes, which were more liable to be thrown overboard or moved, injuring the plants. Planning to replace the damaged lids and oyster shells [used instead of glass to admit light into the boxes] with plain boards: 'much better than trusting to lids so easily broken as these are'. Recommending that boxes intended for transporting plants during long journeys should be glazed if possible, as long as they also had strong shutters, similar to 'those mentioned by Mr Lindly [John Lindley, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]', received by the Society from Sir Stamford Raffles [Thomas Stamford Raffles, governor-general of British Bencoolen in Sumatra, founder of Singapore]. In the absence of shutters, boards were preferable, being a more secure option, as repairing glazing at sea was impossible, and tarpaulin was insufficient to protect plants in rough and cold weather. The 'store plants' had fared better than expected during the long delay in leaving England, and only the Sarcosephyllas esculentus [Sarcocephalus latifolius] appeared 'doubtful to live the voyage out'. Temperature 54°-60°
(9 Oct 1824) A fine morning with a north-westerly breeze, cloudy in the afternoon and rain in the evening. Temperature 57°-60°
(10 Oct 1824) Hazy and cold, with a strong northerly and north-westerly gale: 'the sea struck the ship on her starboard quarter, which stove in [damaged] one of her main deck gun-ports & filled the Sandwich Islanders' cabins full of water'. The topgallant [square-rigged sails or sails immediately above the topsail] striking the mast. The gales continuing all day and night, splitting the main topsail and 'furling' it: 'the weather now became so stormy that I never experienced the like before at sea. The gale of the first of October was but a trifle compared to this'. Temperature 58°-60°
(11 Oct 1824) Strong gales, rain and squalls, with the sea breaking over the ship, necessitating battening down the hatches after water penetrated the lower deck and damaged 'almost every clothes chest upon it, & I am sorry to say both mine got more than half filled'. The carpenters spending all night 'hammering everywhere'. Temperature 54°-55°
(12 Oct 1824) Cold, with strong northerly gales and rain continuing through the night, with water entering gun-ports on the main deck. Passing Cap Finester [Cape Finisterre, Spain]. A lark and a goldfinch getting caught in the rigging. Temperature 53°-55°
(13 Oct 1824) The weather becoming more favourable at 4am, with a light south-westerly breeze. The crew busy reefing the topgallant masts at 6am. Rolling up the tarpaulin, having nailed it to the boxes to protect the plants. The plants 'scarcely injured' but the lids being damaged, with 'hardly an oyster shell left whole & the frames besides so much shattered as to be of little farther use'. A hail shower at 11.30am. The wind ceasing at 12pm. The crew repairing and drying the damaged sails. One of the sailors falling overboard off the fore-chains: '[it] being calm, he was soon picked up again'. Latitude 45°4'N, longitude 11°55'W. Temperature 53°-55°
(14 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate northerly and north-westerly breezes, the ship 'now under topsails, royal & topgallant sails, & at times studding sails'. Two men being punished, 'one for theft, and the other for drunkenness. The first received 30 lashes, and the latter 12'
McRae examining his chests after dinner: 'found my linen wet through' and drying it on the deck, but deciding it was 'unfit to use till washed again at Madeira'. Another 'pretty, poor, unfortunate' goldfinch being caught in the rigging: '[it is] now confined in a lantern for a cage'. Temperature 54°-57°
(15 Oct 1824) A fine morning with favourable easterly and northerly breezes. The ship sailing at a rate of up to 10-12 knots. Constant heavy rain from 1pm, with strong breezes at 8pm. Both Sarcocephyllus esculentus [Sarcocephalus latifolius] plants dead. Temperature 54°-60°, the temperature suddenly rising at 10pm: '[it] is in my opinion owing to our getting during that time 44 miles farther to the southward'
(16 Oct 1824) Seeing a 'strange sail' at dawn. The weather fine and mild with a fresh north-easterly breeze. Progress 197 miles since the previous noon. Temperature 60°-64°
(17 Oct 1824) Fine weather with a fresh northerly breeze. 'This being Sunday, we again had preaching for the second time'. Asking the captain how long he intended to stay at Madeira, but the captain 'gave me to understand he was not certain'. The captain summoning McRae to his cabin and informing him that his instructions were 'at variance with his from Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker, secretary of the Admiralty], wherein he is given to understand that everything collected during the voyage is considered to be the property of the public'. The captain intending to write to Croker to clarify the matter, and McRae suggesting he write to Sabine as well. Temperature 65°-69°
(18 Oct 1824) A fine morning. Coming in sight of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal] and seeing the uninhabited islands of the Desertas [Madeira]. Anchoring off Funchal Bay [Madeira] at noon, the semi-circular bay presenting 'a most imposing appearance to the eye of a stranger'. The white-washed houses forming a 'pleasing contrast' to the barren, cloud-covered mountains resembling a 'natural amphitheatre'
Going on shore at 2pm to deliver a parcel to Mr Vetch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira], but with no time for collecting specimens. The streets of the town 'narrow & dirty' with hard, flinty stones, the houses consisting of several stories but with 'a mean appearance. The lower story resembles a prison more than a dwelling', with iron grating and large doors. Entering the town from the only safe landing place to the west of the town. Visiting a 'small, neat' fruit and vegetable market, kept clean by means of a surrounding wall, with three rows of sheds in the centre and a place at one side for washing chestnuts in small earth pots. Chestnuts and grapes seemingly the most common items. Seeing other fruits and vegetables in season, including lemon, apple, guava, pumpkin ('three kinds') and garlic [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. The prices seeming 'moderate', with oranges, apples and pears sold for a shilling for 20. Not seeing many grapes, being nearly out of season
Enquiring where Veitch lived, and being told he had left Madeira 'for Europe', but 'a Mr Potter' [unidentified] was acting as the vice consul. A guide showing McRae to his house. Meeting George Anson Byron and Potter together on the way: 'his lordship on seeing me enquired if I knew my way. I answered not very well. He then informed Mr Potter that I was the person sent out by the HS [Horticultural Society], and that he had no doubt but he (Mr Potter) would give me every assistance, which he indifferently promised'. Potter directing McRae to his house to deliver the parcel for Veitch. Walking around the town. Promising to visit Potter again in the morning. Finding himself far from the ship after nightfall. Returning to Potter's house to ask 'his Lordship's [Byron]' permission to remain on shore at the British Hotel. Temperature 68.5°-75°
(19 Oct 1824) Writing to Joseph Sabine. Visiting the consul at 8am to ask about [sending letters to] England, but receiving an uncertain response. Expecting to be allowed to see the local gardens, but being recommended only Henry Veitch's garden, 'where he said I would see everything worth seeing in the island'
A guide ('for which I had to pay afterwards') taking him to the garden, about five minutes' walk away and showing him in through a 'narrow, dirty passage, partly underneath an old building almost totally in ruins'. Seeing a low log building with a balcony in the middle of the garden, with grapes and pelargoniums growing on a trellis. The garden about 1/4 acre, 'miserably laid out & as ill kept in order'. Cactus grandiflora [Selenicereus grandiflorus] being the 'best specimen', with large flowers, growing by the walls. Seeing flowers and fruits including Fuchsia coccinea, 'a few shabby' orange trees, fig, Laurus persia [Persea americana] and Mammea americana [here the journal includes a list of 8 more plants]. Not judging it worthwhile to request for further assistance from the vice-consul
Asking the guide whether there were other gardens worth seeing. The guide recommending Mr Blackburn's [Henry Blackburn, merchant in Madeira] garden, about two miles from the town, but McRae being disappointed again. Seeing only a few grapes, oranges, lemons and guavas: 'I could not trust going to any more places recommended by my guide'
Filling a basket with wild plants 'wherever I went' and having to return to town sooner than intended, having filled his basket. Returning on board the ship to fetch his press, specimen boards and paper from his clothes chest. Spending the afternoon pressing the specimens. Preparing to go to the hills the following morning. Temperature 68°-75°
(20 Oct 1824) Rain during the night and in the morning. Rising at dawn to turn his specimens before breakfast. Setting off at 8am towards the church on the mount [Our Lady of the Mount Church] ('well worth seeing'), the main church at Madeira, built on top of a mountain overlooking the bay and Funchal [Madeira]. Being caught in torrential rain, and unable to see the hills through the fog and rain. Seeing chestnut trees growing everywhere, seemingly native, but no other trees. Returning to town at 4pm 'dripping wet'. Being told that the chestnut trees required grafting to produce fruit. Temperature 68.5°-77°
(21 Oct 1824) A fine day. After breakfast heading west along the sea shore 'in search of marine productions' and plants, but with 'poor success'. Returning to the town to procure grapes and figs 'for the good of the Sandwich Island [Hawaii] people, to take on board' in preparation for the ship's departure the following morning. Elizabeth Byron intending to return to England. The chiefs of the 'Sandwich people' staying at the consul's house and the other people at the British Hotel. McRae telling them to obtain grapes and figs for the journey, 'but they regarded what I said with indifference'. Heavy rain at dusk. Temperature 70°-77°
(22 Oct 1824) Cloudy and warm. Drawing a bill 'upon the Society' for £10: 'in favour of a Mr Blanche [unidentified], the exchange of which was about 25 per cent against me'. Writing a letter to Joseph Sabine. Wine supplies being brought to the ship. Weighing anchor and sailing at sunset. Finding fine specimens of Arundo donax ('probably a native') and seeing Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] and sugar cane, the latter growing only in gardens and probably the 'old cultivated cane' from the West Indies. Temperature 68°-76°
(23 Oct 1824) Rain and lightning during the night, cloudy and warm in the morning. 'The ship being standing off sea since yesterday evening'. George Anson Byron and Elizabeth Byron coming on board at 7pm from HMS Dartmouth after dinner with Captain Maud [James Ashley Maude, captain of HMS Dartmouth]: 'we afterwards stood out to sea in company with her [HMS Dartmouth]'. Fresh breezes and cloudy at 8pm. The carpenter 'took the advantage of my being on shore, & stripped off the plant boxes every lid, & replaced them with two-inch elm boards, fitted very badly'. Temperature 68°-76°
(24 Oct 1824) Fine, cloudy weather with fresh, moderate breezes. Still accompanied by HMS Dartmouth. The chaplain [Rowland Bloxam, chaplain on HMS Blonde] observing in his sermon ('no doubt with a view of impressing upon the minds of the sailors the truth of the scriptures') that he had found marine shells on the highest point of Madeira, evidence that the island had been covered with water 'during the time Noah was floating about in his ark'. Temperature 72°-76°
(25 Oct 1824) Fine weather with a north-easterly wind. Two lieutenants from HMS Dartmouth coming on board HMS Blonde at 2pm to dine. The two ships having a race, which the Blonde won, being able to sail with 'considerable less sail set'. Temperature 74°-76°. Watering the store plants for the first time
(26 Oct 1824) Fine weather with light and moderate breezes. The master of HMS Dartmouth coming on board on a boat at 3pm and returning at 4pm. Parting company with the Dartmouth, which was sailing for 'the W India [West Indies] station'. Temperature 76°-78°
(27 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes and a light rain shower in the evening. Seeing several flying fish. One of the carpenters becoming delirious from the heat, '& soon commenced throwing his working tools over board, & was in the act of going after them himself' before being stopped by one of the men. Temperature 74°-78°
(28 Oct 1824) Moderate north-easterly breezes and hot during the day. Several of the crew becoming ill with the heat. Crossing the Tropic of Cancer at midnight. Temperature 74°-82°
(29 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate, favourable breezes. Seeing swallows flying around the ship. Temperature 74.5°-78°
(31 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes. Temperature 75°-82°
(1 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes. Seeing a 'strange sail' at 2pm. Temperature 76°-81°
(2 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes, and 'exceedingly warm'. One of the sailors 'taken ill with fits' from the heat, with several people required to hold him down. Since leaving Madeira, the heat on the lower deck, the place for sleeping and eating, becoming too much owing to lack of air circulation on the deck ('the most trying I ever experienced'). McRae falling ill and asking the captain for permission to move his hammock on the main deck, 'over the guns, which he readily agreed to in the most friendly manner. I am to enjoy this change tonight'. The temperature on the lower deck 85°-90°, and in the shade on the quarter deck 77°-82°
(3 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate, favourable breezes. Everyone on board being mustered on the quarter deck at 10am 'to hear the Articles of War [the Royal Navy regulations of conduct] read aloud by the captain, after which one of the men was punished with 18 strokes for fighting & disorderly conduct'. Temperature 79°-82°
(4 Nov 1824) Light winds and cloudy weather, lightning during the night. 'This day the Sandwich Island people eat [ate] at dinner raw fish (which are commonly called by the sailors bonito), & considered it a great treat. Their devouring fish in this manner without cooking was thought upon with disgust by those on board'. Seeing a large ship at 10pm, possibly an East Indiaman [East India Company ship]. Temperature 79°-82°. Watering the store plants in the evening
(5 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes in the morning, and squally, heavy rain, thunder and lightning at noon. Approaching the equinoctial line [Equator]. Exposing the hardy fruit trees to the rain after nearly two months without water: 'it may be further worth observation that the plants were still moist enough to go without water for weeks to come'. The ship becalmed in the afternoon. Temperature 78°-80°
(6 Nov 1824) Rainy and squally with lightning, and some intervals of fine weather. Sowing mustard, cress and radish among the plants in the boxes. Temperature 79°-82°
(7 Nov 1824) The weather variable with clouds, moderate breezes, heavy squalls, rain, fine weather and lightning. 'The salad sown yesterday morning are all up above ground'. Temperature 79°-82°
(8 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes, squalls and rain at noon, a fine afternoon and lightning after dusk. Temperature 80°-82°
(9 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes, light rain and lightning. Temperature 79.5°-82°
(10 Nov 1824) Fine weather. Temperature 76°-78.5°. Anona squamosa [Annona squamosa] looking like it might not survive the journey, but all other plants looking healthy
(11 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes. Temperature 76°-79.5°
(12 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate easterly and southerly breezes. The ship about to cross the Equator in the evening. The captain giving the crew a holiday, 'with double allowance of wine' and a band to play music. After breakfast the 'usual ceremony' of Neptune 'shaving & ducking those who crossed the line for the first time [McRae is referring to the line-crossing ceremony, a naval tradition performed on persons first crossing the Equator and often involving the figure of Neptune, the Roman god of sea]. The day passed in all kinds of mirth'. The 'magic lantern [optical device for projecting images on a screen or wall]' being performed in the evening, 'also with a view to surprise the Sandwich people'. Temperature 77°-78°. The salad sown on 7 Nov eaten at the captain's table: '[it] was much thought of'
(13 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes. Temperature 77°-78°
(14 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes. Temperature 78°-80°
(15 Nov 1824) Cloudy with strong breezes, squalls and heavy rain at noon, but the afternoon fine. Finishing drying specimens collected at Madeira. Temperature 77°-80°
(16 Nov 1824) Cloudy with fresh breezes. Temperature 75.5°-79°
(17 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes, a rain shower at 10am and a fine afternoon. Temperature 77.5°-81.5°
(18 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes. Seeing a 'strange sail ahead, which before dusk was discovered to be a brig'. Temperature 77°-81°
(19 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate north-easterly breezes. Exchanging signals with the brig at 10am and discovering it to be the Luisa packet [?Lady Louisa] from Falmouth, bound for Buenasayres [Buenos Aires, Argentina], having sailed five days before HMS Blonde. Reaching the ship at 11am and 'spoke to her to ascertain her longitude', hearing that the ship had endured very bad weather. The Blonde being given letters to take to Rio [Rio de Janeiro]. Sailing together until dusk. Temperature 77°-81°
(20 Nov 1824) Cloudy with northerly and north-westerly breezes, and hazy and rainy later. One of the sailors being flogged for theft: '36 lashes'. The sun 'vertical over us' at noon. Copying the journal and 'expense book' since 17 Nov. Approaching Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Brazil]. Temperature 76.5°-79°
(21 Nov 1824) Misty and rainy with moderate north-westerly breezes, calming at 1pm and heavy rain at dusk. Catching a
Extent - 176 pages
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
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