Pages 197-375 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 2
Information
Title - Pages 197-375 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 2
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/6/1/5
Date - 27 Feb-28 May 1825
Scope & content - Pages 197-375, entitled 'Journal part second': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing his stay in Valparaiso, and the voyage on HMS Blonde from Chile to Hawaii via Peru and the Galapagos Islands. The journal continues mid-sentence from part 1 [see RHS/Col/6/1/4]
This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the second of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For a description of the first part, 8 Sep 1824-27 Feb 1825, see RHS/Col/6/1/4. For descriptions of the subsequent parts, 28 May 1825-15 Mar 1826, see RHS/Col/6/1/6-8
Written on rectos only in McRae's hand
(27 Feb 1825, continued) Seeing 'large & fine' tomatoes and beetroots. The fruits and vegetables mainly brought to the market from the countryside, packed in hide trunks carried by mules. The fruits 'looked exceeding fine & tempting after coming immediately round cold Cape Horne [Cape Horn, Chile], which may probably give origin to this place being named the Vale of Paradise', but many were flavourless. The market place in the harbour small, surrounded by 'low and shabby' houses. The meat for sale cut in small pieces and laid out on 'filthy' hides on the ground, and fish ('of no great variety') sold from baskets, at 'reasonable' prices. Old women selling 'country-made shoes of inferior tanned leather'
Going to the hills south of the town afterwards. Seeing three species of Linum ('a yellow, white & blue'), several lichens and other new plants. Returning to the inn at 4pm and spending the evening with 'a party of young gentlemen of the Blonde'. Temperature 60°-64°
(28 Feb 1825) A fine day. Going to the only cooper in town before breakfast to buy a small keg for the fruits purchased the previous day. Taking the keg to 'one of the many common spirit shops' to fill it with 'aguardent [aguardiente, distilled spirits] distilled in the country, which I had to pay the high price of two dollars per gallon for'
Going back to the hills. Seeing a species of Ribes ('in patches much shaded'), a dark, flowering Aesclipias [Asclepias] ('entwined among the brushwood') and a deep scarlet Amaryllis ('at least ten inches under ground in a hard, gravelly soil'). Returning to the Castle Inn at dusk for dinner. Enjoying the peace and quiet at the inn after the ship, despite a flea infestation. Hearing reports of England having acknowledged the independence of South America from Spanish rule [the majority of South American countries declared independence from Spanish rule during the late 18th and early 19th centuries]. Temperature 62°-67°
(1 Mar 1825) A fine day. Going on board the ship in the morning to arrange and press plants. Returning on shore at 1pm after being told the ship would not sail for several days. Going to see Mr Cummings' [Hugh Cuming, sailmaker and conchologist in Valparaiso] collection of shells ('picked up chiefly from whale ships'). Finding him 'civil & obliging, ready to communicate any information I wanted'. Being told that someone 'from Colvill's in the King's Road [Colville's nursery in Chelsea, London]' had lately been in Valparaiso [Chile] collecting plants, but had recently left for Lima [Peru]. Being promised seeds of the 'Chilean pine [monkey puzzle tree]' for the Society
Returning on board the ship at dusk to 'a lumbered steerage, with so many bread bags, that no room was scarcely left to hang our hammocks over them at night'. Temperature 61°-69°. Feeling an earthquake 10pm, 'but much more severe on shore'
(2 Mar 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am to collect bulbs and seeds in the hills above the town. Returning to the inn at dusk for dinner and staying for the night due to discomfort on board the ship 'in the present state the steerage was in'. Temperature 61°-69°
(3 Mar 1825) A fine day. Going on board the ship after breakfast, having been told she was about to sail. Arranging seeds. Several salutes fired from the ships of war in the harbour to honour the governor. Temperature 62°-70°
(4 Mar 1825) A fine day. Finishing packing up the seeds to be sent to England. Writing to Joseph Sabine. Going on shore at 9pm to leave the letter and the seeds with Mr Nugent [Christopher Richard Nugent, consul in Chile] to be forwarded to England later. Waiting for an hour, as Nugent was busy with other visitors, but being welcomed 'in the most friendly manner possible' despite the late hour, 'as he felt pleasure forwarding the interests of those connected with science'. Nugent promising to send the seeds and the letter to Mr Canning [George Canning, British foreign secretary], despite Lord Byron's [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] request that all packages be sent via Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker, secretary of the Admiralty]: 'he flattered himself that he would soon prevail on his lordship [Byron] to alter the direction'. Nugent asking McRae to return the following morning to receive letters of introduction for Lima
Staying at the inn overnight. Temperature 61°-68°
(5 Mar 1825) A fine day. Christopher Richard Nugent saying that George Anson Byron 'would not permit him to alter either of my parcel's direction [other than] to Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker]', and promising to forward them by a merchant ship to England. Nugent giving McRae two letters of introduction for Lima, one to Colonel O'Leary, 'a do-camp [aide-de-camp] to General Boliver [Daniel Florence O'Leary, also known as Donall Finin O Laoghaire, military general in South America and aide-de-camp to Simon Bolivar, Venezuelan military and political leader]', the other letter from Mr Price [Richard Price, merchant in Chile] ('of the first respectability in Valparaiso') to 'the first mercantile house (Messrs Naylor's & Co [Naylor's, Kendall & Co, merchants in Lima])'
Returning on board the ship at noon, 'not sorry of having to quit Valparaiso & its barren hills, where I enjoyed but little pleasure in collecting specimens of the dry, scraggy plants, which surround it'. Weighing anchor at 1pm and 'stood off & on', a signal gun being fired at 4pm for those on shore to board the ship. Taking the cutter in tow at 6pm. Fresh breezes and cloudy at dusk. Temperature 61°-69°
(6 Mar 1825) [This entry was added on the blank verso page, possibly having been omitted during copying] A fine morning with fresh southerly and south-westerly breezes. The sails being shortened and provisions sent on board the cutter. Temperature 62°-65°
(7 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh south-easterly breezes. The cutter in tow 'sails badly', slowing down the journey. George Anson Byron falling ill and confined to his cabin. Watering the plants in the boxes: 'they still remain without recovering, & are getting generally much worse, especially the tropical plants'. Temperature 63°-64°
(8 Mar 1825) Moderate breezes in the morning, the weather cloudy but fine, with southerly and south-easterly winds at dusk. Temperature 64°-66°. McRae feeling unwell so remaining in his hammock: 'the surgeon [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] tells me my disorder is bilious, attended with cold'. 'His lordship [George Anson Byron]' still ill in his cabin
(9 Mar 1825) A fine day with moderate southerly and south-easterly winds. Temperature 66°-69°
(10 Mar 1825) A fine day with moderate southerly and south-easterly winds. Temperature 68°-72°
(11 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy day with moderate south-easterly breezes. McRae still confined to his hammock, and 'considered so ill by the surgeon [William Davis], that he wanted to draw blood from me, which I objected, as I had never before been bled, & did not in my own opinion think my present case required it'. Temperature 71°-73°
(12 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy day with a moderate south-easterly wind. Feeling much better. The captain [George Anson Byron] inviting him to 'come & sit in his cabin' to enjoy the air, fresher than below the deck: 'I feel pleasure in observing that both the captain & the wardroom officers requested me during my illness not to want for anything I could fancy, which they had got. His lordship particularly paid me more attention than I could expect'. The captain feeling better and able to sit up
Expecting to see the Peruvian coast the following day. Temperature 72°-74°
(13 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy day with a moderate wind. Hearing reports at dusk of cannon fire at Callao [Lima, Peru] [Peru was declared independent from Spanish rule in 1821, but battles continued between the republicans and the Spanish royalists]'. Shortening sails for the night. Temperature 71°-74°
(14 Mar 1825) A hazy morning. Sailing towards the coast of Peru. Passing the island of Lorenzo [San Lorenzo Island, Peru]. Seeing ships in Cherillo Bay [Chorrillos, Peru] and the Castle of Callao [Peru] with the Spanish flag flying. Firing commencing at 8am between the 'hostile parties'. Anchoring at 10am in Cherillo Bay, about 10 miles south of Callao. Seeing in the harbour HMS Cambridge ('68 gun, Captain Maling [Thomas Maling, captain of HMS Cambridge] commander'), Chilean frigate Higgins, American sloop of war Peacock and several merchant ships, most of them English
Going on shore at 1pm with the surgeon [William Davis] and Mr A. Bloxam [Andrew Bloxam, naturalist on HMS Blonde, brother of the ship's chaplain Rowland Bloxam], with permission to stay for two hours. Seeing several large brass cannons, brought from Valparaiso 'for the use of the patriots'
Visiting a sparsely inhabited small village on top of a steep, sandy cliff, 'at present a considerable place of trade, from its being the only part where communication can be carried with the shipping'. Seeing mules being loaded with two flour barrels each. The houses in the village low and flat, built with mud and white-washed with lime, 'some with Spanish characters in front, painted red with figures as large as life', and most with varrandas [veranda], 'where often may be seen a hammock with someone in it smoking segars [cigar]'. Seeing numerous carrion vultures in the streets: 'like so many tame turkeys, & will suffer persons to approach them very close'
Walking along the fields surrounding the village, divided into lots by low mud walls. The main cultivated plant Arundo donax and another species of reed, 'for no other purpose, as we supposed, than to be used for wattles to support the mud, which their houses are made of, & the top leaves as food for cattle'. The soil, a white loamy sand, 'apparently capable of producing any kind of crops more useful to the country than the present one now upon it, which soon impoverishes the best of land'. The mountains further inland appearing from a distance to be sandy with no vegetation, reminding McRae of accounts of 'the sandy deserts of Africa'. Hoping to be able to give a better description of Lima on the return journey. Entering the fields through broken gaps in the mud walls, 'now neglected to be repaired, or taken notice of, like the fields which they surround, left uncultivated from a long unsettled state of warfare'
Collecting plants, including two species of Sida, two species of Cestrum, Passiflora, Lantana and Rudbeckia [here the journal includes a list of six more plants]. Returning to the village for a rest. Seeing in a fruiterer's shop some good apples, melons, pumpkins and 'a round, white kind of a potato, which promised to be a good sort by its appearance'. Being given a glass of 'good water, although we saw no signs where any could be got'. Seeing 'some of the fair sex riding on horse-back stridelegs [astride], without stirrups, shoes or stockings. Their complexion was fair, & far from being uninteresting'
Returning on board at 3pm. Temperature 73°-75°
(15 Mar 1825) A hazy morning with light winds. 'At daylight the hostile parties commenced the attack on each other'. Receiving permission at 10am to board one of the ship's boats, 'said to go on shore after putting the purser on board the Cambridge', but being ordered to return on board immediately. Weighing anchor at 4.30pm and being joined by HMS Cambridge and the cutter at 5.30pm. Several of the men being punished 'for various offences'. Still hearing firing at Callao at dusk. Temperature 69°-73°
(16 Mar 1825) A fine morning with moderate winds. Passing San Lorenzo Island at 7am and approaching the Castle of Callao at noon. The ship waiting off the coast, 'during which time the batteries kept constantly firing on the patriots, & could easily see at times the parties skirmishing among the bushes not far from the outer fort, & a vast number of the poor unfortunate inhabitants standing in crowds opposite the front of the houses, covered by the fort, on the sea beach, anxiously looking at our ships, now coming in to anchor'. Two Peruvian gun boats firing at the town at 3pm, dispersing the crows and continuing firing until dusk, despite shots from the castle and royalist gun boats
Anchoring at 7pm with the cutter by HMS Cambridge near Callao, 'which at present appears in a wretched state', many of the houses destroyed, with only the bare mud and bamboo walls standing. Seeing the city of Lima, 'easily distinguished from its numerous high stepels [?steeples], not far distant from unhappy Callao'. The countryside around the town level, 'beautifully interspersed with low growing trees & shrubs'. Hoping the warfare would be over by the time of their return, to allow him 'the pleasure of examining the plants of this beautiful country'. Temperature 69°-73°
(17 Mar 1825) A fine, but hazy morning. Captain Maling [Thomas Maling] 'with his lady' boarding the Blonde for breakfast at 8am. Hearing the sounds of 'French horns & drums' from the shore. The governor of Callao sending an aide-de-camp on a boat with a letter to Maling: 'the contents was to me unknown. The bearer of this letter was a genteel, little, spirited fellow, who had plenty to say for himself, & remained for some time on board with both captains'
Sailing at 12pm. The forts commencing firing at 1pm 'on the patriots, who were seen within shot of the batteries'. Standing out to sea at 3.30pm. Passing San Lorenzo Island at 5pm. George Anson Byron returning on board from the Cambridge. Sailing towards the Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands, Ecuador]. Fine weather at dusk with a moderate south-easterly wind. Temperature 70°-73°
(18 Mar 1825) A fine morning with a light south-easterly wind. Towing the cutter, but letting it go at 9am, the winds blowing it too close to the ship's stern. Taking the cutter back in tow at 8pm and sailing with a south-easterly shore wind. Temperature 70°-74°
(19 Mar 1825) A fine morning with light south-easterly and southerly winds. At 10am 'some experiments was tried with the great guns, which were fired with a double charge of powder & shot'. Fine, cloudy weather at dusk, and light rain in the evening. Temperature 74°-76°
(20 Mar 1825) A fine morning with moderate southerly and south-easterly breezes and a light rain shower in the evening. Towing the cutter. A church service performed. Temperature 77°-80°
(21 Mar 1825) A fine day with light, variable winds. At 10am 'exercised the men at the great guns & small arms, fired several rounds of blank & one of shot, the marines with their small arms firing at a target tile, shot away from the main yard'. Light winds and cloudy in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 79°-80°
(22 Mar 1825) A fine day with light southerly and south-easterly winds. 'The men employed as yesterday'. Moderate breezes and cloudy in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 78°-80°
(23 Mar 1825) A wet morning with variable winds, later fine and almost becalmed. Sailing at 10am with a light south-easterly breeze. The cutter in tow. Temperature 77°-79.5°
(24 Mar 1825) A cloudy morning with light rain showers and moderate easterly and south-easterly winds. Sailing 'by setting studding sails on both sides'. The sailors 'mending & making their clothes etc'. Light winds and cloudy in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 78°-80°
(25 Mar 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. The cutter 'cast off' at dawn. Approaching the Islands of Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands]. Shortening sail at 7am and taking the master of the cutter on board as a pilot, 'being well acquainted with the islands'. Approaching the 'well-wooded' Gardener's Island [Gardner Island, Galapagos Islands] at 3.30pm to 'go wooding & to catch a land turtle', but not finding a safe landing place. Seeing several 'remarkable detached rocks' on the south-east end of the island, resembling sailing ships, the largest one 'formed by nature like a fortified castle, having underneath an arch apparently twenty yards wide'. The island about 1/4 mile long and round. Seeing several seals along the shore. Firing the 'launch carronade with shot, which fell close in shore, the distance being about one mile & three quarters'. Seeing the Island of Albemarle [Isabela Island, Galapagos Islands] at 7pm. Light winds and cloudy in the evening, the cutter in sight astern. Temperature 79°-80°
The plants on board losing their leaves, having been 'forced into leaf' by the sudden change in temperature between Valparaiso and Callao. The apples, pears and peaches particularly affected by the climate and 'many other injuries met with not natural to their elements on shore. This can at a further time be more explained if required'
(26 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with a light south-easterly wind. Reaching the southern end of Albemarle Island [Isabela Island] at dawn, accompanied by the cutter. Seeing several small 'crater hillocks' near the shore, which appeared to have been recently burning: 'all persons on board who could command a spy-glass [hand-held telescope], or borrow one, was at this time eagerly directed in their attention towards the shore, which had the most dreary, unhospitable appearance I ever saw'. The island gently rising 'to a considerable height', with a narrow ridge on the top, the shore seemingly composed of 'heaps of cinders', with some fine mangrove bushes and short white grass and lichen growing in places, and patches of black lava forming 'a curious contrast to the unaccustomed eye of a stranger seeing it for the first time'. Reaching the south-east coast at 11am. The current running at a rate of six miles an hour. Sailing with a breeze at noon. A light rain shower at 1pm
Approaching the Island of Narbourg [Fernandina Island, also known as Narborough Island, Galapagos Islands] in the evening, 'enveloped in clouds'. The winds calming, 'tried soundings with 160 fathoms of line, & found no bottom, being within a mile of the shore'. After dark at 7pm 'all eyes on board were attracted by the sudden appearance of a burning volcano of an immense size, & very brilliant on the brow of a mountain', bursting and sparking above the blaze: 'the size of this new burning phenomenon might be about half a mile in circumference'. The captain not wanting to sail far during the night from the place he intended to anchor the ship, giving everyone on board an opportunity to watch the fire until late in the night, illuminating the ocean: 'some were inquisitive to know from others what could occasion such a fire, others remarking that those who had to keep so large a fire burning must be busily employed, while some talked of Mount Etna [Italy], the Napping Baker [?Mount Baker, Washington, United States of America] & Mount Vesuvius [Italy]. Seeing another, smaller eruption near the shore
Sailing with the cutter. Temperature 78°-80°
(27 Mar 1825) Calm and hazy at dawn. The fire in the crater extinguished, with thick smoke rising from the craters, resembling a 'string of lime kilns'. Sailing with a light north-westerly breeze. Approaching the small volcano at 3pm and seeing it blazing up at intervals, its surroundings covered with liquid lava running towards the sea and smoke rising from it. Seeing the low land covered with black lava and barren hills with only a few low, scattered shrubs 'gave us but a sorrowful prospect of being able long to remain here'. Anchoring at 7am in Bank's Cove [Tagus Cove, Isabela Island] in 25 fathoms of water with 'the small chain cable, within cables' length of the shore', surrounded by high, rocky cliffs, rising several hundred feet above the top masts of the ship. Calm and cloudy in the evening. Losing sight of the cutter and lowering the boats to tow her in, 'should she come in sight during the night'
Watching the 'terrific motions' of the volcano and listening to the screeches of the sea birds and the 'harsh croaking kept up without interruption by the grasshoppers'. Going to sleep at 12am in his hammock, remembering 'for the first time the distance I was now got from happy England, whom I had left little more than six months ago', being now 'upon the remains of volcano eruptions, where its inhospitable shores denies sustenance for a human being to live but a short time'. Temperature 77°-81°
(28 Mar 1825) A fine morning. Most of the boats going on shore at 4am to catch sea turtles or to find wood and water, but finding the water supply too 'small & brackish & insufficient' for the daily consumption on board. The 'Sandwich people got the jolly boat to go fishing'. McRae going on shore at 10am, 'but not without reluctantly being obliged to go to his lordship [George Anson Byron] for permission'
Going on shore with the assistant surveyor. Passing two small whalers' huts in a ravine. Seeing plants, including Cordia ('a fine, yellow species'), Croton with yellow flowers ('handsome'), two species of Euphorbia ('of a slender, shrubby habit & from one to three feet in height. These were the most plentiful, & afterwards to be met with in all situations'), a tree Acacia and Rhus ('which possesses a flow of juice of astringent nature, was the only two plants which attained the form of a tree') and cotton ('indigenous, was plentiful, but being only in flower & newly forming buds, I had no opportunity of judging its quality'). Short, dry grass commonly growing 'where vegetation once commences'. Being surprised by the fresh look of the plants, despite growing out of lava with only sand to support their roots. McRae's companion leaving him in order to shoot birds, 'my mode of travelling being too slow for him'. Reaching the top of the ridge, and examining 'three large heaps of lava, forced out of the earth to the height of 15 to 20 feet'. Walking carefully, each step sounding hollow underneath. Finding a small Polypodium with withered leaves, and several other new plants, including several belonging to the Syngenesia class
The heat becoming 'intolerable' after midday. Feeling thirsty, but not having any water with them, 'only a little brandy, which we took a little mouthful of & found great relief'. Proceeding along the ridge, with an extensive view ('the most dreary & barren I ever beheld') of a large, black lava plain with no plants apart from a species of Cactus. Being told the land turtles fed upon these, but not seeing any. The ridge on the other side covered with grass and low, 'scraggy' shrubs. Seeing plenty of large 'guainas [iguana]' with a 'disgusting appearance' and bringing a brown, black-spotted one on board the ship, weighing 10lbs. Seeing other, smaller lizards, some with red-spotted heads, and a black species living by the sea, 'more disgusting than the other land species'. Seeing many different kinds of small birds. One of the birds being a small pigeon, 'exceedingly tame, [so] that the boy with me often amused himself taking them without the least attempt to escape, for when a stone or stick was thrown at them, it was seldom they flew away, but remained until struck or killed'. Seeing plenty of beautiful, large grasshoppers 'in [a] variety of colours'. Returning to the huts at 5pm to signal for the boat. Meeting with his former companion, who had returned earlier, 'fatigued from heat & thirst, & calling out to me, for god sake to let him have some brandy if I had any regard for him'. A heavy rain shower providing an opportunity for McRae to fill his tin box for specimens with water
Returning on board after dusk. Hearing that the 'Sandwich people' had left the ship to stay at the huts on shore until sailing. One of the boats returning with 46 turtles. With no water available, rumours circulating that they would sail northwards for Abington Island [Pinta Island, Galapagos Islands] the following morning, where there were plenty of land turtles and a chance of finding fresh water. The cutter anchoring by the ship
(29 Mar 1825) A fine morning. Several boats going to Narbourgh Island [Fernandina Island] at dawn to collect wood. The captain going with three or four officers 'to the leeward part of Albemarle [Isabela Island]'. Going on shore at noon with Mr Talbot [Henry John Chetwynd Talbot, lieutenant on HMS Blonde] and the captain of the cutter, who were going to find land turtles. Approaching the huts of the 'Sandwich people', and seeing Governor Poki [Boki, also known as Kama'ule'ule, high chief of the kingdom of Hawai'i, royal governor of the island of O'ahu], 'sitting beside his wife with only his shirt on, who appeared not in the least disconcerted to be found in this half-naked state', with others bathing 'nearly within sight' and the servants cooking fish ('untouched, as they had been taken out of the sea'). Seeing healthy-looking but slender watermelons and muskmelons near the huts, but thinking they were not strong enough to become established on the island due to the lack of soil, shade and moisture
Continuing for about two miles, but not seeing any turtles or new plants. Seeing plenty of cotton and, on the outskirts of the lava field, withered trees and shrubs without any bark, 'quite bleached white from, no doubt, their long exposure to the weather'. A warm afternoon. With turtles unlikely to reside further inland, deciding to return to the huts to wait for a boat. Meeting three of the ship's officers writing 'on a board to be left in the huts, our ship's destination & where from, with the names of the principal officers on board etc [a post box used for communication by whalers and other passing ships]'. Returning on board the ship at dusk. The 'Sandwich people' and all the boats returning on board and preparations being made for sailing the following morning
(30 Mar 1825) A fine morning with light northerly and north-westerly winds at dawn. Weighing anchor and the boats towing the ship out of Bank's Cove [Tagus Cove, Isabela Island]. Without having found fresh water, the allowance for each person on board reduced to six pints of water plus wine per day. Calm at 8am, the current taking the ship 'a considerable way' towards the south-east. The men washing the decks, 'which smelled intolerably from the quantities of fish lately caught by the sailors, & also from so many turtles now on board'. The first lieutenant [Thomas Ball, first lieutenant on HMS Blonde] going on board a ship anchored in Bankses Bay [Banks Bay, Isabela Island], an American whaler from New York [United States of America]. The ship had been sailing for seven months with 600 barrels of oil, with the intention, if there was no fresh water available, to follow HMS Blonde to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii, United States of America]. Seeing the cutter and sailing from Albemarle [Isabela Island]. Remaining in sight of the volcano on Narbourgh Island [Fernandina Island] all night
(31 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with light winds. Waiting for the cutter by the north-west end of Albemarle [Isabela Island]. Sailing close to a 'perpendicular rock', about 30 miles from the island, called Rock Dunder by the sailors. A boat being sent to fish and returning shortly with plenty of rock cod. Seeing several sharks around the ship. Seeing the cutter at 5pm by the island. Sailing with strong westerly and south-westerly winds towards Abington Island [Pinta Island] at 6pm. Temperature 77°-81°
(1 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and south-easterly winds. Coming in sight of Abington Island [Pinta Island] at dawn, about 30 miles away. Two boats sent on shore for turtles: 'Mr A. Bloxam [Andrew Bloxam] & myself accepted the opportunity, but owing to the strong current running at the time we had no hopes of landing'. His lordship [George Anson Byron] sending for McRae to inform him that he intended to leave the Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands], the lack of water having become a 'serious consideration', with a long journey ahead to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], and wishing McRae better success [with collecting] on the return journey
Sailing towards the cutter and sending five weeks' worth of provisions on board. Sailing with the cutter in tow at 8am with a moderate north-easterly breeze. Heavy rain at 9am, 'which was eagerly saved by the men for washing clothes'. Temperature 80°-82° [annotated in different ink but in the same hand as the main text: 'This being Good Friday, all the Sandwich Island natives (7) on board was baptized']
(2 Apr 1825) A wet morning light south-westerly wind. Still in sight of the volcano on Narbourgh Island [Fernandina Island]. Seeing Wenmans Island [Wolf Island, Galapagos Islands] ahead at dawn and Culpeper Island [Darwin Island, Galapagos Islands] at 10am, about 30 miles away. Passing Wenmans Island at 8pm about 5 miles away. Light winds and cloudy. The cutter in tow. Temperature 70°-81°. The plants 'looking still worse every day'
(3 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a light south-westerly wind and rain showers. A church service performed, and, it being Easter Sunday, sacrament given 'to those on board who thought themselves calculated for to receive it. Among the number who had sacrament was the Governor Poki [Boki], who upon getting the wine cup in his hand would have finished its contents had not the clergyman taken it from him'. The cutter in tow. Temperature 81°-82.5°
(4 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light southerly and south-westerly winds. A turtle being sent on board the cutter, having 'lashed on a grating drifted from the ship's stern'. The wind shifting southwards, with heavy rain in the evening. Temperature 81.5°-84°
(5 Apr 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate southerly and south-westerly breezes and lightning in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 80°-83°
(6 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a moderate south-easterly wind and heavy rain, and lightning after dusk. Temperature 79°-82°
(7 Apr 1825) Hazy, with moderate south-westerly winds, heavy rain in the forenoon and lightning in the evening. Temperature 81.5°-83.5°
(8 Apr 1825) A hazy morning with a light south-easterly wind and heavy rain, moderate and cloudy later in the morning and the winds shifting to southerly and south-easterly. The wind 'freshened so much that the cutter could scarcely stand towing without shortening sail'. Lightning in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 80°-81°
(9 Apr 1825) A hazy morning with a moderate westerly wind. Taking the cutter in tow at dawn, 'having slipped her hawser [cable or rope used for mooring or towing] during the night in heavy squall'. Torrential rain: 'all hands were employed saving the rain water, & were fortunate enough to get sufficient to last the ship's company for four days'. A calm and cloudy afternoon, with lightning after dusk. Temperature 79°-80°
(10 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light winds and calm at noon. A boat sent with wood and coals to the cutter, with orders 'to make the best of her way for the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], being tired of towing her longer on the passage'. Parting company with the cutter at 5pm. Lightning after dark. Temperature 80°-83°
(11 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light, variable winds. The cutter still in sight, steering towards the south-west. The officers placing bets on whether the cutter or the Blonde would reach their destination first. Squally and heavy rain in the afternoon, moderate and cloudy with lightning at dusk. Temperature 81°-83°
(12 Apr 1825) Cloudy, with a moderate northerly wind and some squalls and heavy rain. Temperature 79.5°-82°
(13 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a moderate northerly wind, calm and heavy rain at noon, and fresh north-westerly breezes later. Temperature 79.5°-81°
(14 Apr 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh north-westerly breezes. Several birds flying over the ship, indicating land nearby. Moderate and cloudy in the evening. Temperature 79°-80°
(15 Apr 1825) A fine day with moderate north-westerly breezes. Seeing more birds, 'several of which were taken by the sailors while sitting to rest on the ship's rigging'. Temperature 80°-80.5°
(16 Apr 1825) A fine day with fresh northerly and north-easterly breezes, shifting to north
Extent - 178 pages
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)