Pages 377-609 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 3
Information
Title - Pages 377-609 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 3
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/6/1/6
Date - 28 May-5 Oct 1825
Scope & content - Pages 377-609, entitled '28 May continued from part second': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing his stay in Hawaii on the islands of O'ahu and Hawai'i, the journey on HMS Blonde from Hawaii to Chile, and the first month of his stay in Chile. The journal continues mid-sentence from part 2 [RHS/Col/6/1/5]
This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the third of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For a description of the first two parts of the journal, 8 Sep 1824-28 May 1825, see RHS/Col/6/1/4- 5. For descriptions of the later parts of the journal, 6 Oct 1825-15 Mar 1826 see RHS/Col/6/1/7-8
(28 May 1825, continued) McRae had had nothing to do with the planting, 'which, if kept ignorant from them, they would not hesitate to censure me to the world, when they saw in what careless manner they had been planted'. Re-planting orchids from St Catherin [Santa Catarina Island, Brazil]. Starting a list of the live plants, 'but to my surprise found that the natives had stolen all the leaden numbers attached to each plant, as well as the iron hooks, which kept the box lids open when the plants required air on the passage'
Returning to his hut at 10am. Arranging specimens and 'making up duplicates of seeds' to send to England by one of Mr Charlton's [Richard Charlton, British consul at Sandwich Islands] ships. Temperature 75°-87°
(29 May 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Meeting the purser [of HMS Blonde] at 6am at the house of Mr Adams [Alexander Adams, harbour pilot in Honolulu, officer in the navy of the kingdom of Hawai'I, formerly in the British Royal Navy] to go to the other side of the island 'to see the steep cliffs, where Mr A.B. [Andrew Bloxam, naturalist on HMS Blonde] & myself had on the 13th some difficulty in passing'. Rising with Mantle [McRae's assistant from HMS Blonde] at dawn and setting off with a gun and a specimen box
Adams amusing the party with anecdotes of the late Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I, former king of the kingdom of Hawai'i] and his queens, particularly Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu, queen regent (Kuhina Nui) of the kingdom of Hawai'i]. Adams having been on the island since 1809, employed in various ways, including exporting sanderswood [sandalwood] to China and salt to the north-west coast of America. From the latter place he had brought back some deer and let them roam free in the valley, 'when Pitt [William Pitt, Karaimoku, also known as Kalaimoku, Kalanimoku or Billy Pitt, prime minister of the kingdom of Hawai'i, brother of Boki] a short time after happened to get unwell, & fancied that the flesh of the deer would do him good', he ordered one of them to be killed, and, liking the taste, the other one also: 'this ended the life of both poor Adams's deer, & the good which might be expected to arise from the introduction of so useful an animal'
Adams showing McRae the place in the valley of Hana-rura or Nuana [Manoa valley, O'ahu, Hawaii, United States of America], 'where the king of Woahoo's [O'ahu] (Tereaboo [sic; Tereaboo refers to the king of Hawai'i Island, Kalani'opu'u-a-Kaiamamao, the uncle of Kamehameha I, who died in 1782. The king of O'ahu at this time was Kalanikupule]) head general was killed after the invasion of Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I] from Owhyee [Hawai'i Island, Hawaii] to conquer this island'. Tamahamaah had landed his small army with Young [John Young, advisor and interpreter to Kamehameha I] and Davis [Isaac Davis, advisor and interpreter to Kamehameha I] without opposition, armed with 'only one small swivel [gun] & a few firearms, the rest being armed with spears & clubs', while Tereaboo was waiting with his forces in the valley. Davis shot the head general, causing the opposing army to retreat: 'They were then afterwards pursued by Tamahamaah across the island, where on coming to the steep cliff already mentioned, they threw themselves over the precipice, & were thousands of them found lifeless at bottom, when their pursuers came up. In this manner by the help of Young & Davis without hardly any firearms, did Tamahamaah make the easy conquest of this important island, which at present may be considered the first of all the Sandwich Islands on account of its good harbour. The king fled to the mountains, being convinced the custom of putting the vanquished to death would be practised upon. 'I must die', said he to one of his friends, 'for I will not let him enjoy this triumph. I will sacrifice myself to the gods'. His corpse was afterwards found in a cave in the mountains' [McRae is probably referring to the battle of Nu'uanu in 1795]
Returning at 5pm. Skinning the birds he had shot: 'one of these was particularly handsome, being all red, & only met with sucking the blossoms of the Metrosideros'. Richard Charlton, his wife [Betsy Bastram-Charlton] and her sister [Mrs Taylor] visiting before dusk with 'several of the gentlemen from on board'. Temperature 76°-86°
(30 May 1825) A fine day with some light rain showers. Arranging specimens and seeds. Lord Byron [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] and the surgeon [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] visiting on their evening ride to Diamond Hill [Diamond Head, O'ahu] with 'a good deal of conversation respecting the Spaniard [Francisco de Paula Marin, advisor and interpreter to Kamehameha I], who so ill treated my plants brought out from England'. Temperature 76°-86°
(31 May 1825) A fine day. Going to the town in the morning with Richard Charlton to take empty plant boxes from William Pitt to the carpenter to be repaired, but not finding anyone at Pitt's hut. Asking Charlton to help him procure assistance, for which he would pay, 'sooner than remain here losing more time depending on Pitt'. Alexander Adams 'very good-naturedly' borrowing a cart to assist McRae with 'his own people'
Discovering that the plants had been left in the hot sun and consequently all had lost their leaves, apart from one grapevine: 'the entire neglect of these people towards so many useful plants introduced for their benefit, at so much trouble & anxiety for preserving them alive during a passage of nearly eight months, & a distance upwards of 15,000 miles through various climates, at considerable expense to the H Society, easily shows their ignorance yet in the arts of agriculture. In fact the labour & expense of these plants may appear in a manner to be thrown away upon them a century too soon'. Hoping some of the 138 plants would survive
'The Spaniard Marin [Francisco de Paula Marin])' had brought a grapevine in 1814 from Callifornia [California, United States of America], where he had been with Adams 'as linguist [interpreter] in one of the Sandwich Islands vessels to bring over cattle, horses & mules etc'. He had planted the vine in his own garden near Hana-rura [Honolulu, O'ahu] and made the king 'perform the charm of taboo to prevent any being stolen, which till the present time still continues to be in force. So selfish is the disposition of this man that although he has succeeded to cultivate the grapevine with much success, & within the last two years to make more than three casks of wine from the fruit, that sooner than he would part with slips to his neighbours, he actually burned the pruning every year, rather than oblige those who wished for to cultivate them, that he might enjoy the monopoly arising from them himself; which will now soon be out of his power from the liberality of Mr Charlton, who has given away to different individuals several fine grape plants brought with him from the port of Valparaiso [Chile], besides an assortment of vegetable seeds from England, presented to him by the H Society'
Charlton ('who possesses liberal principles') intending to settle at Woahoo [O'ahu] with his family. McRae expecting to see an improvement in cultivation, 'not only in cotton & coffee, but in coco [cocoa] & sugar, where the soil & climate is equally favourable for it to be brought to the same perfection with any in the world'. Temperature 76°-87°
(1 Jun 1825) A fine day, but showery in the morning. Going to the town at 10am with some living plants ('collected for England') to plant them in one of the empty boxes, now being repaired by the carpenter
Seeing Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] 'at a short distance from the road, having several natives with her dragging her four-wheeled cart to the top of a small hill, which was afterwards pushed off to go to the bottom by itself alone with her in it. This ludicrous sort of amusement was always accompanied by the natives with much shouting noise, while her majesty & cart kept going to the bottom'
The captain's clerk visiting McRae at 2pm to say that the Active [Richard Charlton's ship] would be sailing to Valparaiso in a few days. McRae returning to the town in the evening to try and convince 'his lordship [George Anson Byron]' to allow him to send his parcels of seed to Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker, secretary of the Admiralty] instead of Mr Canning [George Canning, British foreign secretary]. Meeting Byron and the surgeon [William Davis] on their way riding to visit 'poor Wilkinson [John Wilkinson, settler at Hawaii]'. Byron granting his permission after some hesitation. Temperature 76°-87°
(2 Jun 1825) A showery morning followed by a fine day. Arranging duplicate seeds to send to England
The 'lofty' Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] and Pio [Lydia Namahana Kekuaipi'ia, also known as Namahana Piia, governor of O'ahu, wife of Kamehameha I and sister of Ka'ahumanu] visiting McRae in the afternoon with several female attendants, 'besides the natives dragging their carts. Both were very inquisitive to know if my friend Mr Forder [a passenger on HMS Blonde] & myself had been married men, who on their being informed we was, they next enquired what was the number of our family, to which my friend, who kept up the conversation with them, said that he had six, but that I had none, at which they remarked, I must only have had but one wife. They then, after some more trifling questions, left us for to bathe in their usual fishpond at a little distance from our hut'
The young king [Kauikeaouli, also known as Kamehameha III] visiting McRae's hut on horseback with a little boy 'brought out from England by Boki [high chief of the kingdom of Hawai'i, royal governor of the island of O'ahu, also known as Poki and Kama'ule'ule]. His majesty was dressed in a shirt, blue jacket & pantaloons of the same colour, but was without a hat, waistcoat, shoes or stockings'. Seeing a boy carrying the young princess [Nahienaena, also known as Harriet or Harrieta Keopuolani Nahi'ena'ena, sister of Kamehameha II and Kamehameha III] from the bathing place. Temperature 76°-87°
(3 Jun 1825) A showery morning followed by a fine day. Arranging and packing specimens to take them on board the ship in preparation for sailing to Owhyee [Hawai'i Island] on 7 Jun. Temperature 74°-85°
(4 Jun 1825) A fine day. Busy stowing away his belongings 'in the midst of noise common to a man-awar [man-of-war]'. One of the 'gentlemen [officers]' catching an 11-foot shark and finding in the stomach 'a large hook & chain, carried away the day before, besides a bullock's foot, part of a pig's head & a variety of other bones, which had been thrown over the ship's side, where he had been noticed for several days past'. Luggage and provisions sent on board in the afternoon by the Hawaiians for the journey to Owhyee [Hawai'i Island]. Temperature 75°-77°
(5 Jun 1825) Sunday. A fine day. A church service performed at 10am. 'Employed all day writing out my accounts' and letters to Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]. Temperature 76°-78°
(6 Jun 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am to leave a packet of seeds and letters with Richard Charlton. 'I got Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] to endorse me a bill for £20, which I sold at the rate of 50d per dollar'. Seeing a large pig roasted on hot stones, 'in the customary way with the South Sea slands mentioned already by Captain Cook [James Cook, explorer and captain in the British Royal Navy, who visited Hawaii in 1778 and 1779]'
Seeing a young woman on the street with several puppies in a tapa [paper mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera, also known as kapa in Hawaiian] cloth wrapped around her shoulders & breasts: 'the custom of suckling dogs & pigs etc is common to the natives of the Sandwich Islands & is held by them in estimation, little inferior to their own offspring, which on my journeys to the woods in search of plants often afforded me the opportunity of being an eyewitness to, while I had occasion to enter the huts, sometimes from curiosity, & at others for a drink of water. I not only observed the suckling of dogs & pigs, but also even feeding them with the poi made from the tarro [taro] root, which they chiefly subsist upon themselves & feed these animals with it the same as a mother would do her own child, which often gave me such disgust that I was obliged to leave their hut immediately. Their dogs are in general useless for anything else but being eat [eaten], & seldom ever heard to bark. In size they are small, with long bodies & ears, sharp piked [pointed] noses & short feet, & mostly of a black colour, but are very often seen covered with mange, to that degree so as to be almost deprived of hair. Yet the natives feed them in this state & preserve all their offspring, which they carry in their arms oftener than do their children, & feel more offended if a stranger passing their huts was to hurt them, than they would do for the other'
Byron attending a general assembly for the chiefs at William Pitt's house for discussing 'fit laws to be established throughout the different islands'. Boki standing up to make a 'surprising speech, which astonished all that were present, particularly some of his own countrymen, who said it must be some other person in Boki's skin', talking about what he had seen in England, comparing it to his own country. Boki recommending that laws and religion be established on the same principles as in England, being 'sorry to observe that their present religion restricted them from lighting fires on Sundays to cook their meals or to bath themselves, contrary to the custom in England, but for his own part he was determined to have a fire in his house when he wanted one'. After some disagreement, the assembly deciding to re-enforce the former laws of Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I]
The sailors coming on shore at 3pm to 'go through several military movements for the gratification of Pitt and others, but unfortunately many of them got intoxicated on their way through the town to the ground, which, to the disappointment of his lordship, several of them were unfit to go through their respective movements', with the royal family and chiefs along with the European residents watching. Seeing Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] in her cart with the young king [Kamehameha III], 'half-naked, sitting above her while she lay in the cart, who upon every time the marines fired, squatted himself with his face downwards on her majesty's back'
Seeing John Wilkinson, who had recovered and wanted to see his lordship [Byron] 'to persuade Pitt to promise him that the small spot of ground given him, when he has improved it, may not be afterwards taken from him', but Byron unable to grant any assurances to him. Staying at Novara's [American innkeeper and merchant in Honolulu] inn with the assistant surgeon, to 'procure some things' before the ship's sailing. Temperature 76°-79°
(7 Jun 1825) A fine day. Visiting his lordship [George Anson Byron] to ask whether he should take his empty plant boxes on board the ship, and being told that was not necessary, as Byron intended to return to the island. Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu], Pio [Namahana Piia], John Young and several chiefs embarking on the ship for Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay, Hawai'i Island]. Saying goodbye to Richard Charlton but hoping to see him again soon
Sailing in the afternoon with fresh easterly and north-easterly breezes. 'Among the queen's attendants are an old, cunning, waggish fellow, named Jack Bligh, a native of Otahite [Tahiti, French Polynesia], who spoke a little English, & had, he informed us, been with Captain Bligh [William Bligh, British Royal Navy officer] in the Bounty at the time the unfortunate mutiny took place [during a mutiny on HMS Bounty in Tahiti in 1789, the crew seized control of the ship, setting the captain and 18 others adrift in the ship's open launch boat]'. Other passengers on board included two missionaries, one with their wife ('for the good of her health') and Sir Joseph Banks [also known as Joe Banks, Hawaiian guide], who acted as an interpreter to Byron. Temperature 76°-78°
(8 Jun 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-easterly breezes. At 10am, 'articles of war was read to the ship's company, then after had 10 of them [sailors] punished, some for drunkenness, & others for disobedience of orders'. Seeing the island of Mowee [Maui, Hawaii] at noon. Northerly winds in the evening. Temperature 73°-55°
(9 Jun 1825) A fine morning with fresh southerly and westerly breezes, calming at 4pm. Joe Banks sent on shore to Mowee [Maui] to procure fish from the huts by the beach, and returning with fresh and salted fish, 'which the natives, immediately after getting them on board, began to devour the fresh in a ravenous manner raw, with some poi & tarro [taro], not even wasting their gills or entrails, but considered them the most delicate parts of the fish, & what was generally eat [eaten] by the queens & chiefs. Among those eating fish in this disgusting manner, we noticed to our surprise Manaware, who we had brought out from England, seated in the midst of them with his shirt sleeves rolled up to his shoulders, eating & tearing to pieces with his teeth the gills & entrails, having his mouth, hands & fingers besmeared with blood from his not using a knife & fork, a thing yet never adopted by the Sandwich Islanders. I was so much disgusted on seeing this fellow, who of late had been accustomed of seeing a different way of living, that I could not help be, without telling him that he ought to have shown his countrymen how he had seen us eat our meals, to which he replied somewhat offended that he & all the people of his country liked fish in this way best, observing at the same time, we see plenty of poor people in England, but we see none here, that they got plenty of poi, tarro & fish, & no want for any, like many poor men at home. Such was the answer I received from a person who had been in England with their king, & who on the passage, like the others of his countrymen, to their own country, was fed by Lord Byron in a style not inferior to what he usually had himself'
The weather fine and still at dusk. Temperature 74°-76°
(10 Jun 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-easterly breezes. Coming in sight of snow-covered Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea, Hawai'i Island] above the clouds: 'a grand appearance'. Light rain in the evening, temperature 73°-75°
(11 Jun 1825) A fine morning with strong easterly breezes and rain showers during the day. Coming in sight of the round, flat top of Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa, Hawai'i Island]. A cloudy evening with fresh breezes, temperature 73°-76°
(12 Jun 1825) Sunday. A fine, cloudy morning with strong easterly and north-easterly breezes. A church service performed at 10am in the presence of the queens, several of the chiefs and the missionaries. Anchoring in the afternoon
McRae, wanting to use his time on the island well, asking George Anson Byron to request Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] to give him 'natives' to accompany him to Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea]. With one of the missionaries as an interpreter, communicating to the queen 'the necessity of having 7 or 8 of the natives to accompany me', and the queen giving her consent after some hesitation. 'Having now so far settled things to my satisfaction, I had yet still another favour to ask from her, of being provided with a hut somewhere on shore to remove my traps to tomorrow, where Mr Forder will live till my return on purpose to receive & dry what plants I may find necessary to send home while on my journey'. The queen responding that she did not know about any huts, but would make enquiries. Temperature 73°-77°
(13 Jun 1825) A fine day. Going on shore after dawn to find the huts of 'the only two foreigners at this place besides the missionaries', to ask one of them to act as a guide to Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea]. Hearing from one of the missionaries, Mr Goodrich [Joseph Goodrich, American missionary in Hawaii], that the people he was searching for had left a fortnight ago to hunt for wild cattle near Mouna Kaah, and would probably stay for several more weeks. Goodrich himself promising to accompany McRae as a guide, having been on the mountain once previously: 'this kind offer completed my wishes'. Deciding to travel by canoe to the foot of the mountain, 'as we had no difficulty to procure a canoe, if I made again application to Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu], who had plenty at her command', and return by land, a 30-mile journey through deep ravines and large rivers
Returning to the ship for breakfast. Asking his lordship [George Anson Byron] to request from her majesty [Ka'ahumanu] a canoe and 'extra natives to man it' for the journey. Byron promising to do so 'in his usual pleasant manner, when he found her in such humour as likely not to refuse him, being at present rather sulky from accounts received of some persons on shore having acted wrong in her absence'
Several officers wishing to join McRae to Mouna Kaah if he could wait for a few days, while other officers intended to wait for the surveyor [Charles Robert Malden, surveyor on HMS Blonde] to return from Pearl River [Pearl Harbor, O'ahu]. The 4th lieutenant, Mr Talbot [Henry John Chetwynd Talbot, lieutenant on HMS Blonde], and the purser, Mr Wilson, asking McRae to request permission for them from Byron ('in case of them being refused'). Byron granting them permission to join the party and Kaumanna promising a canoe for them
Going on shore at noon to search for a suitable hut with the help of Manaware and Goodrich. The huts near the bay 'all pleasantly situated under the shade of breadfruit trees, which in places form woods of themselves & grow to a great height'. Seeing plenty of rose apple and coconut trees, some of them very old and large. Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay] a 'very pleasant spot', with its woods and plentiful water supply, but with little cultivation, apart from small patches of banana, taro and tapa. At the western end of the bay a large river with several waterfalls, convenient for watering vessels in the harbour, and a subterranean river, dammed to form a large freshwater fish pond ('taboo'd for the use of the king & the chiefs'). Seeing a reef running across the bay and a small island with plenty of coconut trees, called Coconut Island [Hawai'i Island]. The north side of Owhyee divided into two districts, belonging to Kaumanna and Pio, who resided ('when at Heddo to receive the rents') on the eastern side of the bay in two huts, 'or rather sheds'. Byron staying in a hut belonging to one of the queens
Returning on board the ship at dusk to hear that the canoe would not be ready until the day after tomorrow. John Young talking about his journey to Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa], the second highest mountain after Mouna Kaah, with Dr Menzes [Archibald Menzies, British botanist and naval surgeon, who visited Hawaii two or three times during the 1780s and 1790s; this was the first recorded ascent of the mountain in 1794]: 'Mr Young's opinion of the height of the latter mountain being much higher than the former goes no farther in proof of their difference, than that during the 36 years he had been on the islands, he never noticed Mouna Kaah free from snow, but had always seen the other without any in summer, which on that account he has considered it to be inferior height to Mouna Kaah'. Temperature 74°-76°
(14 Jun 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10 am 'with my traps, salt provisions etc, taking with me Mantle & another lad named Trounce, who are both allowed me from the ship'. Discovering that the hut promised to him by Manaware was no longer available. Being offered part of a chief's hut on the opposite side of the bay. 'Being thus disappointed for want of a hut to secure my provisions & other things, now landed on the beach surrounded by crowds of natives, who, if they had the opportunity, would not hesitate to make free with what they could lay hold of'. Being allowed to leave his belongings at the house of 'his lordship [George Anson Byron]', and Byron offering a tent erected for his servants as temporary accommodation for McRae and Mr Forder
Asking John Young and two of the missionaries whether they thought Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] would 'disappoint' him about the canoe, and whether he should remind her, 'while so many were present whom she could understand'. Finding Kaumanna in her hut, 'as usual lying on the floor with her face downwards & several natives round her brushing the flies from her body'. McRae asking her if he would get the 'canoe & natives' the following morning: 'she hesitated in giving an answer, till she had satisfied herself in taking a survey of me from head to foot, then said [that] when she saw one of the chiefs, she would let me know. On her giving me this unsatisfactory answer, I requested Mr Young, who had more influence over her than the missionaries had, to tell her that if she could not let me have the canoe & people conveniently for nothing, that I was willing to satisfy her or the chiefs with what money she wanted'. Finding this promise to have the desired effect, a canoe was immediately sent across the bay to the head chief, the chief promising McRae his canoe and people the following morning, 'without paying any money whatever'
Sending a message on board the ship for Henry Talbot and Wilson to be ready the following morning. 'The lads' boiling two pieces of salt beef, one for dinner and one for the journey. Spending the evening preparing and packing for the journey. Byron asking McRae to dine with him, the surgeon [William Davis], chaplain [Rowland Bloxam] and painter [Robert Dampier, artist on HMS Blonde] ('his general constant companions while on shore'). Mr Forder joining McRae at sunset on shore, and 'both afterwards took up our bed, going for the night in the tent with two of his lordship's servants'. Temperature 74°-79°
(15 Jun 1825) A fine day following an uncomfortable night, with rain 'pouring through the old tent'. Joseph Goodrich arriving at dawn with a double canoe. Embarking their provisions and luggage, but being detained until 6am, 'on account of some of the natives being still absent, getting their own provisions of poi & fish'
Starting the journey with light, favourable easterly breezes after fetching Henry Talbot and Wilson from the ship, the party 'now in number 17, eleven natives & six of ourselves, with the well-wishes of those on board for our success & safe return'. Landing at 11am after 30 miles' journey at Lapahoi [Laupahoehoe, Hawai'i Island], in a narrow, rocky creek. Bailing out water from the canoe due to the high surf ('useless'). Drying their clothes and 'rubbing our firearms free from the saltwater' on landing. Discovering 40lbs of salt meat ('my share of provisions') missing in the confusion of landing the canoe
Lapahoi a small, stony flat area in a deep ravine with a few huts and scattered sweet potato and taro patches, with the sides of the ravine rising to 500 feet on each side and terminating in a rocky precipice by the beach. Seeing a species of Pandanus growing on the sides of the ravines, the trees giving the coast a 'very pleasant appearance at seeing their green, bushy tops hanging pendant over the rocks, where underneath in many places small subterranean streams of water fall down at no great distance from each other'. The same Pandanus growing most plentifully at Owhyee [Hawai'i Island], and cultivated frequently on the other islands for use in making mats and pillows for sleeping on. Seeing plenty of tea trees [ti plant] in the ravines
'Taking some refreshments' and dividing the baggage into equal loads 'for the natives to carry' before setting off at noon. Leaving behind six people with instructions to wait for four days with the canoe, in case the party wanted to return by water. Stopping briefly to draw breath on top of the summit above Lapahoi, and watching the high surf breaking over the rocks underneath. The country becoming 'more interesting [with] every step'. Ascending a narrow path towards the woods. The fine views reminding them 'much of home, & if cultivated, [the land] appeared to be capable of producing an equal return of crops to any land of a similar climate, [but] is yet suffered to remain as nature had formed it', with no livestock and covered with long grass and 'short, stumpy' Cyathea tree ferns fed on by swine. Seeing 'thinly scattered' huts surrounded by small patches of sweet potato, taro, sugarcane and banana, 'sufficient to supply the wants of the naked beings ['beings' underlined] that inhabit them, which often amount from three to four generations, huddled close together at night in one hut like so many dumb animals', without protection from the cold, heavy dews
Reaching the edge of the wood between in the afternoon after crossing three narrow, deep ravines covered with Metrosideros, Aluritis [Aleurites] and a species of Rhus, 'but without water, excepting during heavy rains'. Goodrich suggesting they stop for the night despite the early hour, having reached the last inhabited huts. Hoping to be able to procure food for the rest of the journey, especially following the loss of McRae's provisions. Their only other hope being to meet the 'two Europeans' hunting for wild cattle in the mountains
On entering one of the largest huts 'to see if it was free from filth', Goodrich meeting a smiling young woman, wife of one of the cattle hunters, who said she had only left the hunters the previous morning and that they had shot two bullocks. The men 'taking possession of the cleanest part of the hut for our accommodation without leave or ceremony, as is customary with these people themselves'. McRae going with Goodrich to find sufficient provisions for the night, but finding pigs too expensive ('nearly triple what they were worth'). Buying some fowls instead, and paying for them with money and 'looking glasses [mirror]'
Finding on their return Messrs T. & W. [Henry Talbot and Wilson] 'highly amused, seated in the midst of a large crowd of natives collected from all quarters, eagerly viewing them with surprise'. McRae going to the woods to collect plants while the supper was prepared. Finding several new species of fern before returning at dusk. The trees in the woods growing to 'a moderate size', and primarily consisting of several species of Metrosideros with different coloured flowers and foliage, including one with straw-coloured flowers, and Aluritis [Aleurites], with abundance of ferns growing underneath them
Finding his three fellow travellers sitting on a mat, each with 'some fowl' in one hand and a 'clasp knife in the other, busy eating in the presence of a number of natives, two of whom held in their hands a light made from the kernels of the kukue or candlenut (Alurites) [Aleurites], several in number passed through [threaded] on a splinter of the bamboo cane, which gave a greater light than two or three common sized candles'. Going to sleep at 9pm in a corner of the hut, 'on a clean mat brought with us on purpose, while every other part was occupied by natives, men, women & children lying mixed together, nay even their shabby disgusting dogs shared part of their bed, who they were seen to take fondly in their arms to lie beside them. The scene around us was so interesting, particularly to Mr T. & W. & myself, that we kept on talking & laughing for hours in the dark till at last overcome by sleep'. Temperature 71°-80°
(16 Jun 1825) A fine, but foggy, morning following a cold night. Temperature 64° at dawn. Continuing the journey at 5am, despite the heavy dew still covering the grass and wetting everyone up to their knees. Entering the woods by a narrow path next to a ravine, edged with banana trees with large bunches of fruit. Joseph Goodrich describing the ravine as 'the place where Mr Young [John Young] & his comrade Davis [Isaac Davis] fought their first battle in the service of Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I] & defeated upwards of 10,000 of the enemy with only 300', during w
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