First expedition of David Douglas: Journal 1
Information
Title - First expedition of David Douglas: Journal 1
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/5/1/1/1
Date - 3 Jun 1823-10 Jan 1824
Scope & content - David Douglas's travel journal relating to his first expedition to the east coast of North America
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-75: Narrative of journey, 3 Jun 1823-10 Jan 1824
Pages 76-142: Blank
Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled 'Rough Journal. David Douglas 1823' and 'From the Royal Horticultural Society, Vincent Square, London SW1P 2PE'. Title on the flyleaf in pencil: 'East Armenian [sic; American] Journey 1823'. The binding is in fair condition. The edges of a few protruding pages which are pasted in are brittle. Pages 69-75 are pasted onto the leaves of the volume. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 21.5 (w) cm
This volume is the first version of David Douglas's travel journal relating to his first expedition. For another partial version of the journal, Sep-Nov 1823, see RHS/Col/5/1/1/2. A transcription combining the two volumes was published by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1914, edited by the secretary of the society, Rev William Wilks, and the librarian, H.R. Hutchinson, with the title 'Douglas' journal 1823-1827'
The volume is written on both rectos and versos in David Douglas's hand. There are annotations in pencil and ink in another hand, probably by the editors of the journals in 1914. These annotations expand abbreviations, clarify spelling and separate the entries, and have not been noted in the description
Original foliation is on the upper right-hand corners of rectos (beginning on the first page, numbering 41-74). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Pages 69-75, comprising journal entries, had been pasted onto the leaves, possibly by the editors of the 1914 transcription. Pages 76-142 are blank
Illustrations: there is a small drawing of a flower on page 53, following the entry for 27-28 Oct 1823
Summary of contents:
(3 Jun 1823) Taking a coach to Liverpool from Charing Cross, London. Pleasant morning after rain through the night. The country 'very fine for 17 miles from the metropolis'. Finding Conferva egerops [identification unresolved as at Aug 2018] whilst changing horses. Seeing beautiful fields at Woburn Abbey, 'tastefully laid out', divided by hedgerows planted with horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), in full flower: 'a very imposing appearance'. Seeing Menyanthes nymphoides [Limnanthemum nymphoides] for the first time 'in its natural state'. Arriving at Northampton at 2.30pm and resting for 25 minutes, before reaching Lancaster [?Leicester] 9.45pm. Dining and leaving again at 10.30pm. Rain and cold during the night
Arriving at Liverpool at 4pm. Calling on Messrs Morral & Woodward [commercial agents in Liverpool], finding out that the Ann Maria of New York, which he had booked, was to sail the following morning. Making arrangements for the journey. Visiting the Botanic Garden. Being received by Mr Shepherd [John Shepherd, curator of the Liverpool Botanic Garden] 'in the most handsome manner' and being shown Shepherd's 'treasures', many from North America, including ferns, Sarracenia adunca [identification unresolved as at Aug 2018] ('luxurious appearance'), Ranunculus aconitifolius ('which I learn is rare; Mr Munro [Donald Munro, gardener at the Horticultural Society of London] says that he never saw it, save in the collection of Mr Don of Forfar [George Don, botanist in Forfar, Scotland, father of Horticultural Society plant collector, George Don]'), Anemone alpina and Scottish rarities, such as Menziesia [here the journal includes a list of 19 more plants]
Returning to town. Meeting with Captain Tair, captain of the Ann Maria, intending to sail the following morning
(5 Jun 1823) Going on board the ship at 6am, but the captain (to his 'great mortification') being unable to navigate the river. Pleased, Douglas returning on shore to visit the Botanic Garden again: 'I had thus full scope of seeing it in perfection'. John Shepherd showing him four species of Tillandsia from Trinidad, and about thirty plants of Arracacia ('the same as I saw at the Society's garden'): 'one of the species of Tillandsia was remarkably woolly. He had some other species received last year from [the] same source doing well, nail [nailed] on the back wall of his stove'
(6 Jun 1823) On board the ship at 9am, 'in tow of two power steam boats, which left 15 miles down the channel'. Slow progress with contrary winds
(7 Jun 1823) Making little progress: 'all day tossing in the channel'. Many passengers sick, but Douglas feeling 'perfectly comfortable', apart from a headache caused by the cold on the way to Liverpool
(8 Jun 1823) Rain and strong gales
(9 Jun 1823) Strong gales and 'tremendous sea', and a fine, pleasant breeze later
(10 Jun 1823) The first good morning. Most of the passengers still sick. 'Clouds of sea fowl' surrounding the ship. Seeing the Welsh coast
(11-12 Jun 1823) 'Averse' winds. Seeing the rocky shores of Wales in the distance viewed between the Isle of Man and Isle of Anglesey. No sun
(13 Jun 1823) Cloudy. 'Put on allowance of water, two quarts to each individual'
(14 Jun 1823) Latitude 47°33'N
(15-16 Jun 1823) Hazy, 'thick' and foggy weather
(17 Jun 1823) Light winds in the forenoon. Calm towards the evening. Being amused by shoals of porpoises around the ship
(18-19 Jun 1823) Calm. A small vessel bound eastward passing the ship
(20 Jun 1823) Being accompanied by a brig and a sloop [sailing boats], 'which afforded pleasure'. Latitude 44°19
(21-22 Jun 1823) Calm
(23 Jun 1823) 'Thick' weather. Accompanied by another ship. Latitude 43°35
(24 Jun 1823) Light northerly breeze. Latitude 42°53
(25-26 Jun 1823) 'This being my birthday (I completing my twenty-fourth year) and the market day of my native place, I could not help thinking over the days that were gone'. Light winds, making little progress
(27-28 Jun 1823) Thick fog in the morning. No sun
(29 Jun 1823) 'A delightful view' of Flores [Azores, Portugal] at 8am about 15 leagues away, appearing very rocky. Pleasant. Shooting four sea birds, but being unable to pick them up due to strong currents. Latitude 39°34, longitude 36°12
(30 Jun 1823) Within three leagues of Flores at 4am. Seeing small shrubs on the northern shore with the captain's glass [binoculars]. Preparing the boat for going on shore
(1 Jul 1823) 'Wind favourable, which prevented the captain sending the boat on shore, which was a disappointment to me'. Seeing the peak of Pico [Mount Pico, Azores, Portugal] nine leagues away
(2 Jul 1823) Foggy. Losing sight of the islands. Sunshine at midday. The sky towards the evening 'beyond description'. Latitude 40°2'N
(3-5 Jul 1823) 'Nothing particular'. Calm and cloudy. 'I found my Spanish grammar a great relief, and sometimes I took a book of 'Linnaean Transactions''
(6-8 Jul 1823) Dull, heavy weather. Making little progress
(9 Jul 1823) A heavy shower at 4am: 'I could not but observe how the dogs eagerly licked the decks'. Some of the passengers washing their clothes. Latitude 43°N
(9-10 Jul 1823) Light breezes, squally and rainy
(11-12 Jul 1823) Thick fog and rain
(13-14 Jul 1823) 'Very unpleasant' fogs on the west coast of Newfoundland [Canada]
(15 Jul 1823) Rough sea, with strong winds tearing the sails: 'we look all pitiful indeed'. More moderate in the evening, and pleasant by midnight
(16 Jul 1823) Cloudy and adverse winds
(17 Jul 1823) Pleasant morning, breezy towards midday and foggy in the afternoon
(18-19 Jul 1823) Pleasant morning, but squally towards the night. 'Water very bad at tea'. No sun
(20 Jul 1823) Pleasant, making little progress
(21 Jul 1823) Strong breezes and moderate northerly wind
(22-23 Jul 1823) Foggy
(24 Jul 1823) Pleasant weather. Measuring 45 fathoms of water at Georges Bank [United States of America and Canada], 25 fathoms at midnight
(25 Jul 1823) Reaching the west end of Georges Bank. Clearing the Nantucket Shoals [United States of America], expecting to reach land soon. Passing fishing vessels. No sun
(26 Jul 1823) The captain sending on board two fishermen, procuring fresh mackerel, 'a very great delicacy'
(27 Jul 1823) Coming in sight of Cape Cod [Massachusetts, United States of America] six leagues away: 'a pleasing spectacle'. Latitude 41°38
(28 Jul 1823) Monday. A strong breeze, heavy sea. Latitude 40°48
(29 Jul 1823) 'Every person on board now became uneasy', the crew and the passengers being out of tobacco: 'nothing but passengers buying, bartering etc, which made good sport. Sailors chewing their tobacco, drying it, and then smoking the same'. 12 fathoms of water at 10pm. Foggy
(30 Jul 1823) A fine light breeze. Reaching Block Island [Rhode Island, United States of America] at 12pm: 'I now felt myself nearer'
(31 Jul 1823) Coming in sight of Long Island [New York, United States of America]: 'I cannot express the satisfaction I feel'. The shores sandy and rocky. Accompanied by four vessels
(1 Aug 1823) A fine wind. Squalls at midday. Views of Long Island
(2 Aug 1823) Saturday. The ship 'all in an uproar', in consequence of the death of a horse belonging to one of the passengers, the horse having cost him £200 in England. Seeing light at Sandy Hook [New Jersey, United States of America]
(3 Aug 1823) Sunday. Everyone delighted at seeing 'more of the new world' at 4am. Taking a pilot on board at 7am. At 10am, passing 'the floating light [a vessel acting as a lighthouse] lately erected', its captain boarding the Ann Maria. Passing the forts [?Fort Hamilton and Fort Wadsworth, New York] to the right and left. Anchoring at 4.30pm. The health officer boarding the ship at 5pm and ordering a fourteen-day quarantine due to smallpox. Going on shore on Staten [Staten Island, New York] at 6pm, returning on board an hour later
(4 Aug 1823) Monday. 'This day presented nothing but bustle', everyone anxious to get on shore. Being permitted to go on shore at midday for two hours
(5 Aug 1823) Applying to the medical officer to go to the city. Not being allowed to go with any of the clothing on board, 'which induced me to purchase clothing and go up'. Returning in the evening. Nothing permitted to leave the ship. Messrs Kennedy & Maitland [merchants in New York] being out of town, attempting unsuccessfully to find Dr Hosack [David Hosack, physician and botanist in New York]. Going through the town and taking a steamboat to Staten Island. Oppressive heat, the temperature 96° in the shade
(6 Aug 1823) 'This morning can never be effaced'. Rain during the night, cooling the air and adding 'a hue to nature's work, which was truly grand'. Seeing the fine orchards of Long Island and the variety of soil and vegetation of Staten Island: 'I once more thought myself happy'
Going to the city in the afternoon 'to see what steps I should take as to the progression of my business'. Not being able to retrieve his luggage for two more days, and as a result starting to feel uneasy after the long passage, 'and then to be perplexed'. Being received by David Hosack in a cordial manner. Visiting Dr Torrey [John Torrey, physician and botanist in New York], 'whom I found an intelligent botanist, an agreeable person, and much disposed to aid me'. Returning to Staten Island
(7 Aug 1823) Moving the luggage on shore and through the custom house. Seeing oaks and maples, Liriodendron, Pyrola maculata [Chimaphila maculata] ('growing one mile west of marine hospital'), two species of Stellaria ('on this small hill I found asbestos in great abundance'), Verbena hastata ('growing on dry gravelly soil') and two species of Smilax, growing 'spontaneously' [here the journal includes a list of 7 more plants]
(8 Aug 1823) Moving boxes to town. Spending the afternoon with David Hosack
(9 Aug 1823) Meeting Mr Hogg [Thomas Hogg, owner of a nursery in New York], 'who expressed himself glad to see a person from London'. Hogg, at David Hosack's suggestion, offering assistance and guidance to the city
(10 Aug 1823) Sunday. Going with Hogg to see the gardens 'of his neighbours and religious friends'
(11 Aug 1823) Monday. Going early in the morning to Fulton vegetable market [Fulton Stall Market, Seaport, New York, United States of America]: 'it had a beautiful appearance'. Seeing vegetables and fruits including beet ('of superior quality'), onions ('fine, mostly red'), cucumbers ('not so fine as may be expected, and appeared for the most part to be the same as the short prickly ones cultivated in England'), damsons and pineapples (from the West Indies) [here the journal includes a list of 9 more vegetables and fruits]: 'I observed a very great deficiency of cauliflower, indeed they were miserably poor'.
Setting off for Flushing [New York] at 8am to visit the gardens of Mr Prince [William Prince, horticulturist in New York]: 'I found him a man of but moderate liberality'. Seeing some good specimens of Magnolia, Berberis aquifolium, a few European plants, common shrubs and herbs. 'Indeed on the whole I must confess to be somewhat disappointed', having had high expectations due to Prince's 'extensive catalogue and some talk', but finding most of the garden covered with weeds
Seeing beautiful villas on the banks of the Sound [Long Island Sound]. Seeing people preparing to dive to the Hussar, a British frigate 'taken during the late war' [HMS Hussar, wrecked in 1780 off New York]
(12-13 Aug 1823) Crossing the Hudson River [New York and New Jersey] early in the morning to visit fruit orchards. Seeing a particularly fine twenty-acre orchard belonging to an old Dutch farmer, with 24 varieties of peach. Hearing about the methods of growing them, with the stones sown in April, in rows four feet apart, and six to ten inches between the seeds. The seedlings appearing in May and being kept clear of weeds by a horse-drawn plough, with any lateral shoots pinched off, leaving the plant only with the top shoot: 'about the end of August the same season they are inoculated, headed off at the usual time the following spring, and frequently the second season after budding they produce fruit'. Plums frequently grown from seed
Spending the whole day in the gardens, which were 'devoted chiefly to ornamental plants in the swamps', including Sarracenia purpurea, Bletia tuberosa [Calopogon tuberosus], Salix babylonica, Populus balsamifera and Nuphar advena [here the journal includes a list of 12 more plants]
(14 Aug 1823) Thursday. Visiting the Botanic Garden, 'which is now, I am sorry to say, in ruins', one of the hothouses having been taken down, one stripped of glass, and only the greenhouse 'still in a sort of form'. A good variety of soil, and well-chosen location. Seeing 'some good trees' of Magnolia cordata [Magnolia acuminata var. subcordata] and Magnolia macrophylla, but 'all the herbarium plants are gone from the greenhouse, and have been given to the lunatic asylum'. Visiting Mr Codie's [unidentified] orchard and garden in the afternoon, and being promised fruits and seeds of melon, 'in which he excels'
(15 Aug 1823) Friday. Learning through David Hosack of a plum called Washington ('a name which every product in the United States that is great or good is called'). Receiving four plums, varying between three pounds and three and three quarters of a pound in weight, the largest seven and three-eighths of an inch in circumference, shaped like a greengage, its colour 'somewhat between cream and sulphur', with a delicious greengage-like flavour, small stone and thin skin. The tree had been bought by 'a Mrs Miller [unidentified] about thirty years since out of the flower market. After standing in her garden for 5 years, it was during a thunderstorm cleft nearly to the bottom', but sent up suckers the following spring, which the 'great' William Bolmer [merchant in New York] acquired and planted: 'the fruit has improved every succeeding year, the taste being the best'. The tree growing in 'pure red sand', the original tree having been removed, and three cartloads of good soil from a cultivated field and decayed vegetable matter given to the tree, with the roots left bare during the winter. Preserving the fruit in spirits
(16 Aug 1823) Saturday. Writing to England. Going to Staten Island and crossing the bay to Long Island. Little attention paid to cabbage, broccoli and beetroot: 'carrots are objects of more attention'
(17 Aug 1823) Sunday. Attending church. Dining with David Hosack at his house
(18 Aug 1823) Monday. 'Rectifying my lists etc'
(19 Aug 1823) Tuesday. Going with Thomas Hogg on board a steam packet to New Brunswick [New Jersey], then by coach to Trenton [New Jersey] by Kingston [New Jersey], Princeton [New Jersey] and Lawrenceville [New Jersey]. The country well cultivated, the soil rich and light: 'for upwards of ten miles it appeared a garden'. Sleeping at Trenton
(20 Aug 1823) Wednesday. Going on a steamer from Trenton to Burlington [New Jersey], fifteen miles away. Being welcomed by Mr Coxe [William Coxe, pomologist and politician in New Jersey]. Seeing his new 'vast and extensive' orchards, with a good selection of peaches, apples and pears and the cider harvest about to begin. Coxe promising to send the Horticultural Society fruit in the autumn, 'after his checking off what he considered to be new'. Recommending a Mr Smith [Daniel Smith, nurseryman in New Jersey], his business partner, as a contact for Douglas. Sleeping at an inn as Coxe's family was 'poorly, except one of his daughters'
(21 Aug 1823) Thursday. Seeing on the pine barrens near Burlington Epigaea repens, two species of Pyrola, Rubus cuneifolius, Rhexia virginica and Laurus sassafras [Sassafras albidum] [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]. Leaving Burlington at 5pm by steamboat, arriving at Philadelphia [Pennsylvania, United States of America] at 7pm
(22 Aug 1823) Friday. Visiting Mr Collins [Zaccheus Collins, amateur botanist and plant collector in Philadelphia], 'a botanist of distinction in that quarter' and a friend of David Hosack's. Collins recommending a visit to the 'venerable' John Bartram [John Bartram, botanist, horticulturist and explorer in Philadelphia], Mr Lisle [J. Lisle] of Woodlands [estate built by the Hamilton family in Philadelphia, with extensive gardens and greenhouses], Henry Pratt [merchant in Philadelphia] and the local nurseries: 'I am truly obliged to this gentleman for his kind attention and his willingness to forward the views of the Society'
Visiting Mr Will Dick [William Dick, janitor at the University of Pennsylvania], janitor of the university, and being received kindly and shown 'the garden he has established partly on his own account'. Seeing Euphorbia variegata [?Euphorbia marginata] from Arkansas [United States of America], Donia ciliata [Grindelia ciliata] ('figured in Hooker, 'Fl Ex' 1823 [William Jackson Hooker, 'Exotic Flora', 1823], a most singular plant belonging to the natural order Compositae, root large, resembling Bryonia dioica [?Bryonia cretica], has a taste like Quassia, gives a liquor-like porter by fermentation, from the Rocky Mountains [United States of America and Canada] (Major Long's 'Expedition', 1822 [James Edwin, 'Account of an expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains, performed in the years 1819-1820', 1822, based on Stephen Harriman Long, American military explorer])'), a species of Fumaria ('a species of vine from Long's expedition, differs from any in cultivation'), Verbena bipinnatifida ('from Arkansas') and a species of Salix ('beautiful, not in Britain') [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]. Hoping to obtain seeds in the autumn
Visiting Mr McMahon [?Thomas Paine McMahon and his mother Ann McMahon, who ran Bernard McMahon's nursery in Philadelphia], three miles north of the city. Not finding him at home, but looking around the garden. Finding, 'after a patient search', two plants of Maclura, seventeen feet high, bushy and rugged, with a few fruits on the trees, the plant well described in Pursh's preface to 'Flora Amer' [Frederick Traugott Pursh, 'Flora Americae Septentrionalis', 1814]. Visiting 'Bartram's old place, but found no person at home'
(23 Aug 1823) Saturday. Visiting the vegetable market in the morning, finding the supply and the produce 'finer' than in New York [United States of America], with superior-looking peaches and apples: 'they have not that sickly appearance, which is found among the fruit of New York'. Visiting Landreth's [seed company in Philadelphia] nearby, with many fine plants, including Champneya rose, originating in the southern states, Magnolia cordata [Magnolia acuminata var. subcordata] ('a fine tree'), Berberis aquifolium ('rather sickly'), a fine Lagerstroemia indica ('imported from China, in flower') and grapes ('[they] thrive well here, running up poles or on trellises') [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
(24 Aug 1823) Sunday. Being shown the main sights in and around the town. Seeing Centaurea americana [Centaurea melitensis] in a small garden: 'plants are cultivated in this city with a good deal of taste'
(25-26 Aug 1823) Monday-Tuesday. Setting off at 4am with Thomas Hogg for Chester, Delaware [United States of America], 15 miles away ('said to be good for the neatness of its gardens'), and then Wilmington [Delaware], Newcastle [New Castle, Delaware] and Newport [Delaware]. Seeing nothing new, but the plants finely ordered and managed, including Rubus cuneifolius on the banks of the Brandywine Creek [Pennsylvania and Delaware], among Asclepias tuberosa, Asclepias syriaca and a species of Eupatorium
Returning to the town on Tuesday and visiting Woodlands, four miles away. Not finding Mr Lisle, but seeing 'what might be said to be the finest American establishment': 'the whole place has the appearance of nicety'. Seeing the famous Cyamus luteus [Nelumbo lutea] growing 'south of the navy yard' with Sagittaria obtusa [?Sagittaria trifolia], Nymphaea odorata and Nuphar advena
(27 Aug 1823) Wednesday. Taking a steamboat from Philadelphia to Bordentown [New Jersey]. Seeing the house of Joseph Bonaparte [Joseph-Napoleon Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon Bonaparte]: 'a most splendid mansion', with well-cultivated fields and English-style pleasure grounds with fine views. Taking the stage [stagecoach] to Amboy [Perth Amboy or South Amboy, New Jersey]. Sleeping at Amboy
(28 Aug 1823) Thursday. Continuing the journey by steamboat, passing Elizabethtown [Elizabeth, New Jersey] and arriving via Staten Island to New York. Fetching plants from 'the office, where they had been left' and taking them to the son of Thomas Hogg to be planted and secured: 'I cannot but consider myself happy at meeting with Mr Hogg: he carefully attends to the little treasures during my absence'
(29 Aug 1823) Friday. Putting the Osage apple [Osage orange] in spirits. Visiting Mr Floy [Michael Floy, nurseryman in New York] to select specimen trees from his grounds
(30 Aug 1823) Saturday. Visiting the market in the morning. Admiring the vegetables, in particular celery, in the garden of Mr Wilson [William Wilson, nurseryman in New York], a market gardener. Wilson building a large, 'elegant' greenhouse
(31 Aug 1823) Going to Flushing in the morning to talk to William Prince about plants. Only finding his son ('a great pedant') at home. Returning at 2pm. Arranging lists and catalogues
(1 Sep 1823) Monday. Writing to Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]. Preparing to leave early by steamboat, but being prevented 'owing to a change of boats'. Arranging dried plants. Attending a committee meeting of the New York Horticultural Society to offer assistance whilst in New York. The president of the society M. Hoffman [Martin Hoffman] 'is a man of reputation, being a wealthy merchant here', treating Douglas with 'all possible attention imaginable'. Staying the night at Hoffman's house: 'they will assist me materially in the way of my selection'
(2 Sep 1823) Tuesday. On David Hosack's advice, visiting a friend of his, a fruit grower living seven miles away. Obtaining a 'curious sort of bean of South American origin'. Seeing 20 trees of Seckel pears, 'loaded to the ground' with small fruit. Riding with Hosack in the afternoon to meet another one of his friends 14 miles away
(3 Sep 1823) Wednesday. Spending most of the day with a Mr Shaw [?William Shaw, gardener in New York], 'a private gentleman of this city, who is a fruit grower of more than ordinary merit'. Seeing his garden, consisting of two English acres of peaches and grapes, the peaches four years old and 'in excellent state of bearing'. Seeing a plant of Isabella grape, trained over the veranda, covering a space of about 75 feet in length: 'thought to prove a valuable thing in wine or probably dessert'
(4 Sep 1823) Thursday. Boarding the steamboat James Kent at 5am. Travelling up the Hudson River towards Albany [New York, United States of America]. The scenery 'particularly fine on the west side', with perpendicular rocks covered with wood. Seeing many 'pleasant' villas in the highlands about 40 miles from New York: 'West Point [New York] is still pointed out to strangers, being the place where the unfortunate, but good, Major Andre paid the debt of nature in his country's defence [John Andre, British army officer, was hanged as a spy during the American Revolutionary War in 1780]'. The approach to the fort and military school 'has a beautiful effect'
Going on shore at 1.30pm to visit Governor Lewis [Morgan Lewis, previously governor of New York], 80 miles from New York, but finding him and his family away from home. Stopping at an inn three miles away for refreshment. Walking by the Hudson, but finding nothing interesting, apart from a rose growing out of a crevice of rock, with no flowers but '40 capsules in a corymb'
(5 Sep 1823) Friday. Being woken up at 5am by James Thomson Junior of Elerslie [Ellerslie, New York], Morgan Lewis's neighbour, offering Douglas to stay with him. Receiving 'great attention' from Mrs Thomson [Eliza Thomson], but Mr Thomson Senior [James Thomson, merchant in New York] being away attending the Supreme Court at New York. Seeing a fine collection of fruits and vegetables in the garden, with peaches ('in great vigour and health, neither pruned nor get any manure'), apples ('the usual choice ones peculiar to America') and pears
Finding in their woods Gerardia flava [Aureolaria flava] 'in great perfection', growing in dry gravelly soil, shadowing another 'small and starved' species of Gerardia. Seeing several species of Eupatorium, Inula, Solidago and Aster: 'the whole of this place seems in cultivation, like England'. Seeing four large oaks of different species and being promised acorns on his return. Going to bed early, intending to take the steamboat to Albany early in the morning
(6 Sep 1823) Saturday. Boarding the steamboat Richmond at 1am. The scenery similar to previous days. Arriving at Albany at 11am. Visiting 'his excellency', Governor Clinton [DeWitt Clinton, naturalist and governor of New York], 'who showed me attention, desiring me to call the following day at 12 o'clock and he would consult with me as to my route. I left him with my instructions and withdrew'. Going to the vegetable market, with an abundant supply of fruits. Seeing a small native plum and 'superior' cabbages and beans
(7 Sep 1823) Sunday. Being woken up at 5am by thunder and flooding in the streets: 'the town standing on a gentle declivity, the water rushed with great rapidity'. Visiting DeWitt Clinton, in whose opinion Douglas ought to proceed directly to Canada, 'the season being far advanced', suggesting he take the steamboat Superior from Buffalo [New York] the following Saturday. The governor giving Douglas letters of introduction 'to all the places of science or influence on my line of journey', with 'a small guide and verbal instructions'
Preparing to leave Albany, intending to see more of it on the return journey. Writing to Joseph Sabine. Leaving at 4pm and reaching Schenectady [New York] at 9pm. Torrential rain all the way
(8 Sep 1823) Continuing the journey at 3am towards Utica [New York]: 'the rich verdure of nature, the lofty mountains on the right hand, the fertile fields, and the Mohawk [Mohawk River, New York] gliding down on the left, gave to the country an appearance fine beyond description'. Seeing farms with orchards, with 10 to 12 varieties of apples, two or three varieties of plums, but not many pears. 'In every village or cottage stood a cider mill, casks & [people] busy employed in preparing for their cider harvest'
Arriving at Little Falls [New York], 70 miles from Albany, at 2pm: 'the bad road and the jolting reduced me so much that I was obliged to give up that mode of travelling'. Taking a canal boat. Seeing a beautiful, elegant granite bridge and aqueduct across the Mohawk, with three arches: 'built in the space of two months and two days, dedicated to DeWitt Clinton [Clinton was responsible for building the Erie Canal, built between 1817 and 1825]'. Arriving at Utica at 9pm
(9 Sep 1823) Tuesday. Leaving at 8am by canal boat for Rochester [New York], 60 miles away. The fields rich and fertile, generally well cultivated. Passing Rome [New York] at 12pm, and seeing 'two fine seats [residence of importance] on an eminence'. Passing large swamps of fir, walnut, ash, oak and elm. Finding ('to my astonishment') a Magnolia ten feet high, with large, smooth, ovate, acute leaves. The boats being 'fitted up on good principles', accommodating 24 ladies in one cabin and as many men in another. Sleeping on board, but being disturbed on passing the locks. Arriving at Rochester at 6am on 11 Sep
(11 Sep 1823) Thursday. After breakfast at 8am, taking the mail [mail coach] to Avon [New York], 24 miles south, intending to get the coach on the western road to Buffalo, but having to stay the night in Avon. Going to see the 'celebrated' sulphur springs known as Avon Springs, a health destination
(12 Sep 1823) Friday. Leaving early in the morning by stage [stagecoach] for Buffalo. Breakfasting in Caledonia [New York], a Scottish settlement. The country flat, and the settlements 'in infancy', the ground being cleared by burning. The country around Batavia [New York] ('a neat little village') fine, with rich and well-cultivated fields. Continuing the journey at 4pm through woods and marshes: 'a wild and desolate place'. Arriving at Buffalo at 12am
(13 Sep 1823) Saturday. Writing to Joseph Sabine. Visiting Oliver Forward [judge in Buffalo], 'a gentleman of considerable wealth, and friend of Governor Clinton [DeWitt Clinton]'. Walking around the town before breakfast. Going on board the steamboat at 9am and sailing at 10am
Arriving at Amherstburg [Ontario, Canada] after a pleasant 60-hour passage. After moving his trunk on shore, visiting Mr Briscoe [Henry Briscoe, officer, who served in the war of 1812 with Edward Sabine, geophysicist and astronomer, brother of Joseph Sabine], and being received with 'great kindness' and promises of assistance to the Horticultural Society: 'I felt sorry to learn the loss of his birds'. Spending the evening with Briscoe, intending to make an excursion to the woods the following day
(16 Sep 1823) Tuesday. Visiting Henry Briscoe at dawn, 'who, on my making my appearance, said he had waited a long time for me'. Eating breakfast at 6am. Setting out towards the north-east, Briscoe taking his gun and dogs, proving himself a good marksman. 'This is what I might term my first day in America'. Seeing trees of 'astonishing magnitude' growing in the rich, black earth
The soil reddish near Lake Erie [Canada and the United States of America], producing fine crops of Indian corn [flint corn]. For the last years, tobacco being successfully cultivated for the Montreal [Canada] market: 'according as the general opinion goes, it will form an article of great importance to our Canadas [the British colonies of Upper Canada and Lower Canada, known collectively as the Canadas, 1791-1841, comprised Southern Ontario, parts of Northern Ontario, United States of America, and Quebec and Labrador, Canada], and at no distant period'. The woods consisting of several large species of Quercus, Juglans cathartica [identification unresolved as at Aug 2018], Juglans nigra ('immensely large'), Juglans porcina [?Carya glabra or Hicorius porcina] and Fagus ('in dry places'), with a species of Orobanche on its roots. Four miles east of the town seeing a species of rose with 'strong' thorns and wood resembling Rosa multiflora, but the shoots and leaves eaten by cattle or sheep. Collecting seeds of species of Liatris, Helianthus, Aster, Eupatorium and G
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