Journals of John Forbes: Journal 1
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 1
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/1
Date - 4 Feb 1822-1823
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 4 Feb-18 Aug 1822, describing the journey from England to Portugal, Madeira, Tenerife, Cabo Verde, Brazil and South Africa. The back of the journal records lists of specimens
Overview of contents:
Initial loose leaf with title 'Mr Forbes Journal, Contained in five books'
Pages 1-151: Narrative of travel, 4 Feb-18 Aug 1822
Pages 152-181: Blank
Pages 182-184: 'Seeds, continued', specimens 41-61
Pages 185-187: Blank
Page 188: 'Birds, Delagoa Bay, 1823', specimens 59-62; 'Algoa Bay, 1823', specimens 63-70
Pages 189-191: Blank
Pages 192-194: 'Case of Green Glass Jars No 21'
Pages 195-197: Blank
Page 198: 'Plants in soil'
Page 199: Blank
Pages 200-206: 'Insects, Delagoa Bay'
Page 207: Blank
Pages 208-210: 'Seeds, Delagoa Bay', 'St Mary's Madagascar'
Pages 211-216: 'Birds (Delagoa Bay)', 'Isle of Saint Mary, East Coast Madagascar', 'Mozambique', 'Delagoa Bay 1823'
Pages 217-219: Blank
Page 220: 'Specimens of Rocks, Cape G Hope', 'Rocks Island Saint Mary, East Coast of Madagascar'
Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Covers and pages are all attached but the binding is weak and breaking. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
There is a partial transcript of this volume at RHS Lindley Library, classmark 910(6M)SUT
This journal appears to be Forbes' original journal, written in his hand and with his own pencil annotations. For a copy of entries from 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822, see the second part of Forbes' journal, RHS/Col/3/1/2 (a reference is made on 30 Apr 1822 to a copy of a part of the journal having been sent to London from Brazil, believed to be RHS/Col/3/1/2)
The journal is annotated in pencil by Forbes (unless otherwise indicated), with marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The volume was reversed, with lists of specimens written at the back of the journal
The volume is written on rectos only
The journal contains headings by location. In many places, the exact distances, measures and names were left blank and filled in later in ink or in pencil in the same hand, sometimes with details crossed out and corrected. There are also blank spaces left to be filled, often for specifying the species or name of a specimen of plant or an animal
Original foliation 1-75 is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(4 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in Spithead, having previously brought belongings on board at Woolwich while the ship was being fitted out
(6 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Barracouta to deliver a letter from Mr Brookes [unidentified] to Buchannan [John Buchannan, assistant surgeon on HMS Barracouta], Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven] and Connolly [Thomas Connolly, assistant surgeon on HMS Leven]
(7 Feb 1822) On board all day. Seeing a shoal of porpoises in the bay
(8 Feb 1822) Anchoring at Portsmouth. Going on shore to purchase shot gun flints and 'other necessaries'
(11 Feb 1822) Sailing from Spithead. Passing the 'beautiful and picturesque' Isle of Wight. Anchoring off Cowes
(13 Feb 1822) Sailing from Cowes. Passing through the Needles. Seeing seabirds, possibly shags (Pelecanus gracilis) on the white cliffs: 'imposing appearance'. Passing St Alban's Head. Seeing the light on Portland Point [Portland Bill lighthouse] in the evening
(14 Feb 1822) Losing sight of England with Start Point in Devonshire. A pleasant and uneventful passage
(19 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Finisterre [Spain]
(20 Feb 1822) Passing the town of Vianna [Viana do Castelo, Portugal] at the mouth of the River Lima [Limia, Portugal]. The country to the north of the town hilly, rocky and barren, with cultivated land along the shore. The houses mostly white and low, scattered among the cultivated land and trees. Seeing the Aqueduct of Villa do Condi [Santa Clara Aqueduct, Vila do Conde, Portugal], but being too far away to estimate its length: 'it appeared to be upwards of a mile' [crossed out in pencil: 'I understand it is for the purpose of conveying water to the town']. The coast lower and more open further ahead
(21 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Carveoira (Peniche) [Cabo Carvoeiro, Peniche, Portugal] and Burling's Rocks [Berlengas archipelago, Portugal] five or six miles from the land. Passing the town of Ericeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. The houses mostly white, standing 'apparently without any order or regularity'. Seeing on the hill the famous Church and Convent of Mafra [Portugal], about 820 feet in length, presenting 'a very striking object from the sea'. Coming in sight of Cape Roca [Cabo da Roca, Portugal] with its lofty rugged mountains [some text crossed out and annotated: 'of Cintra [Sintra, Portugal], rendered famous by the circumstances of the late war[?]'] behind it, on the sides of which were situated many villages. The coast from Peniche steep and barren, 'seemed to be well calculated for the geologist', but having no opportunity to examine it. Anchoring at the mouth of the river Tagus [Portugal] in the evening
(22 Feb 1822) The wind changing to easterly gales preventing the ship from getting near the land until the morning [annotated: 'under Cape Espichel [Cabo Espichel, Portugal]']
(23 Feb 1822) The wind more moderate. Taking a pilot on board and proceeding up the river Tagus. Anchoring in the afternoon [annotated: 'to the E [east] of the city']. Boarding a boat to go on shore to deliver a letter to Mr Jeffery [John Jeffery, British consul in Portugal] at Belam [Belem, Lisbon, Portugal]: 'he received me very kindly and promised me every assistance'
Seeing for the first time fences composed of Agave americana 'and the striped variety', growing with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica]. Seeing other trees with a dry, dull appearance, discovering them to be olive (Olea europaea) and cork (Quercus suber) trees, and seeing for the first time in open air some beautiful palm trees (Phoenix dactylifera). Lisbon 'pretty', the houses all of white stone or whitewashed, but with 'a great sameness in it from the want of spires to the churches', the locals being afraid to build them, being afraid of the frequent earthquakes. Seeing Old Lisbon on the other side of the river, destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, a 'sad specimen of the effects of these dreadful phenomena'
(24 Feb 1822) Sunday. Visiting the aqueduct [Aqueduto das Aguas Livres, Lisbon, Portugal]. Discovering its length to be 3,450 feet, with its central arch 180 feet high and 20 feet in span. Seeing groves of orange trees with some fruits remaining, most having been gathered, almond trees in blossom and an Arum and Narcissus bulbocodium in flower. Oranges planted near brooks or in damp locations, being kept damp until the fruit ripened
(25 Feb 1822) Visiting the Botanic Garden at Adjuda [Ajuda, Lisbon]. Intending to deliver a letter to Mr Brotero [Felix de Avelar Brotero, director of the Ajuda Botanical Gardens in Lisbon], but not finding him. Being shown around the garden by the gardener in Brotero's absence. The collection of plants appearing limited and the garden looking 'slovenly'. The lower part of the garden laid out in squares by hedges of sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) but with few plants, 'except what nature sends'. The upper part a terrace with different shapes, squares and triangles, with one species of plants in each division. Seeing at the back a hothouse or old fashioned greenhouse, with plants already familiar in England, Forbes having seen better specimens of most. Seeing some fine specimens of cactus, already common in England
Being shown the museum attached to the garden, with an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals, a zoological collection containing hippopotamus skins from the east coast of Africa and birds from South America ('a good collection but not in a very excellent state of preservation'), a well-preserved and extensive collection of fishes and a good collection of snakes: 'they are arranged without regard to system to please the eye, in cases with glass fronts', exposing them to light. Noting that the new royal palace nearby will be a 'magnificent' building when finished, composed of whitish-yellow polished limestone and with fine paintings in the rooms
(26 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero again but not finding him. Leaving letters and 'the list' for him, and intending to visit again the following morning. Visiting John Jeffery's house, the former residence of Marshal Beresford [William Carr Beresford, general in the British Army and marshal in the Portuguese Army] to see his garden, with plants from Brazil, 'kept in better order than any I have seen about Lisbon'
(27 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero. Finding him infirm with gout and old age: 'he was very kind and offered me plants of anything I wanted'. Being advised to visit Mr Correa [Abbe Jose Correia da Serra, naturalist and diplomat in Portugal]. Delivering a letter to him, and being promised assistance
(28 Feb 1822) Going [annotated: 'Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography], Mr Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] & myself'] across the bay to the other side of the river Tagus [Portugal] to shoot birds. Seeing only a few, common also in England. The land composed of sand covered in vineyards with plants cut and contorted to take root. Seeing pines (Pinus pinea), olives (Olea europaea), myrtles, Erica vulgaris [Calluna vulgaris] and Erica mediterranea [Erica herbacea] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants], no grasses, and corn with a 'meagre appearance'. The trees covered with species of lichen, giving them a 'sickly look'
(1 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden to acquire plants. Felix de Avelar Brotero being unwell and asking Forbes to return the following day
(2 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden. Receiving over 40 kinds of plants and seeds of 23 plants from Felix de Avelar Brotero. Taking the plants to John Jeffery's house to pack them along with Brazilian plants from William Carr Beresford's garden
(3 Mar 1822) Packing plants. Procuring several Portuguese vines, grown for their fruit rather than for making wine
(4 Mar 1822) Preparing to leave Lisbon. Packing up a copy of the first part of this journal. Writing letters to England [annotated: 'and left them with Mr Jeffery, along with the copy of the journal to be forwarded to the secretary of the Society [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society]. Purchasing more camphor. Sailing down the river and anchoring at Belam [Belem]
(5 Mar 1822) Sailing from the Tagus with a fair wind: 'bid adieu to the shores of Europe. For a time after this nothing in particular occurred'
(8 Mar 1822) Passing Porto Santo [Portugal] and Desertas Islands [Portugal]. Anchoring at Madeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. Going on shore with a letter to Mr Veitch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira]. Visiting Veitch's garden. Seeing for the first time in the open ground mango (Mangifera indica), granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis), guava (Psidium pyriferum, Psidium pomiferum) [Psidium guajava], pineapples ('but they look starved and sickly') and tamarind (Tamarindus indicus) [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. In another garden 'belonging to a Portuguese gentleman', seeing cocoa nut [coconut] (Cocos nucifera) and alligator pear (Laurus persea) [avocado, Laurus americana]. Boarding the ship to prepare for a trip to the interior of the island the following day
(9 Mar 1822) Leaving Funchal [Madeira] with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] and some other officers from the ship for the village of Camera de Lobos [Camara de Lobos, Madeira]. Staying at Henry Veitch's house overnight.
Mostly vines being cultivated, with only the south side of the island producing fine wine [annotated: 'remarks on the culture of the vine']. Planting of vines involving 'great pains' with trenching of the ground to a depth of three or four feet [annotated: 'and sometimes even as deep as seven feet, to a foundation of solid lava'], planting two- or three-year old plants at the bottom and making a horizontal trellis of the stalks of Arundo donax overhead, to which the vines are trained. The vineyards being situated to take advantage of the water and the hilly location with streams of water available in dry weather. The vines planted in rows four feet apart with plants two feet apart within the rows and no manure used.
Seeing along the roadsides and in the hedges two species of cactus, Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and humilis [Opuntia tuna], and in the damp ground near the brooks [annotated: 'eddoe or'] Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta], one of the chief vegetables on the island, planted eight or nine inches apart and covered in water to discourage weeds, being dug up after 10 months and the larger tubers selected. Bananas (Musa sapientum) cultivated in similar locations, producing fine fruits. The largest trees being Laurus indica [Persea indica] and foetens [Ocotea foetens] and chestnut (Castanea vesca).
Arriving in the evening at the Jardin [Quinta Jardim da Serra, Veitch's house], beautifully located at the top of a deep valley. Staying for the night. Setting out in the morning for the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras, Madeira] [annotated: 'Curral is a Portuguese word signifying a fold, or sheep fold, & this part here named the Coral may be supposed to resemble one, being a very deep valley surrounded on all sides by stupendous mountains']
(10 Mar 1822) Leaving Henry Veitch's house in the morning [annotated: 'intending to ascend the highest peak']: 'the road now became very indifferent'. The main shrubs being some species of Rubus and the common broom (Spartium scoparium) [Scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius]. Stopping for views at 3,994 feet above sea level: 'the sight was sublime', with clouds beneath and the tops of the rugged mountains above them. The rocks covered with Lycopodium hispidum [Selaginella hispida] (specimen 11) and Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], with trees of Laurus foetens [Ocotea foetens] and Erica viridipurpurea [Erica erigena], some two feet in diameter. Reaching an altitude of 4,271 feet. Descending into the Valley of the Curral [Curral das Freiras] by a rugged, almost perpendicular road cut in the mountain, crossing a brook and ascending a similar road on the other side, cut on the face of the damp rock. Collecting specimens and plants of Adiantum reniforme. Reaching the top of the hill between 4pm and 5pm. Returning to Funchal at 7pm. Seeing a few birds, also common in England, and not many insects
(11 Mar 1822) Arranging the plants collected the previous day and planting them in Henry Veitch's garden. Collecting seeds and flowers from the garden for botanical lectures on board
(12 Mar 1822) Visiting Mr Keear's[?] garden. Seeing many fine plants, including Bignonia pandorea [Pandorea pandorana], Bignonia capreolata, Solandra grandiflora and Passiflora incarnata [Passiflora edulis] in flower. Collecting more flowers for the lectures on board. Writing letters to leave with Henry Veitch. Preparing to leave Madeira the following morning
(13 Mar 1822) Sailing from Funchal in the morning with a light breeze. Losing sight of Madeira during the night
(15 Mar 1822) Passing the islands of Alegranza [Spain] and Lancerota [Lanzarote, Spain] to the east in the afternoon. The islands appearing barren and 'incapable of cultivation, being nothing but bare rocks'
(16 Mar 1822) Passing the island of Forteventura [Fuerteventura, Spain]. Coming in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain], seeing the Peak [Pico del Teide, Tenerife] covered in snow. Anchoring at 7pm
(17 Mar 1822) Going on shore to make arrangements with the vice-consul [John Duplan, British vice-consul in Tenerife] to visit the interior of the island the following day. Staying on board the ship and preparing for an early start in the morning
(18 Mar 1822) Going on shore at 6.30am for breakfast. Proceeding towards the town of Laguna [La Laguna, Tenerife], about one and a half miles from Santa Cruz [Tenerife]. Going up a deep narrow valley with banks covered with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and Agave americana. Collecting plants and catching several species of insects. Birds scarce in that part of the island. The land well cultivated with two or three crops per year, but not many vineyards. Arriving at Laguna for refreshments for the party and the horses. Returning to Santa Cruz at 8pm
(19 Mar 1822) Visiting gardens near Santa Cruz: 'horticulture is but little attended to', with few plants in the gardens. Recruiting Mr Lorenzo Pastor [Lorenzo Pastor Castro] as a Horticultural Society correspondent [annotated: 'Mr Pastor is an enlightened merchant, who has visited most parts of North America, well informed on all subjects of natural history and has made some excellent collections, his correspondence likely [to] be beneficial to the society']
(20 Mar 1822) Writing letters and delivering them to the vice-consul John Duplan. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(22 Mar 1822) Latitude 24°9'N. Seeing the first sea nettles or Portuguese men of war (Medusa caravella) [Physalia physalis]. Catching two and preserving them in spirits. Touching the tentacles causing a stinging sensation similar to that of 'cowitch' [annotated: 'cowage'], making everyone afraid to touch them, but some sailors suffering for their curiosity. Some of the tentacles up to 12 feet long but so fragile that it was impossible to preserve one of such length [annotated: 'No 1 of No 1 jar']. Crossing the Tropic of Cancer in the evening
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing the first flying fish (Exocoetus volitans), a tropical bird Phaeton aethereus [Phaethon aethereus] and some stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagieasus) [Hydrobates pelagicus], generally considered an omen for bad weather by sailors. The weather continuing fine. Seeing large numbers of Medusa caravella [Physalia physalis]
(25 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of Sal [Republic of Cabo Verde]: 'certainly the barrenest of any of this groups of islands we visited'. Anchoring south-east of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain, Sal] ('so called from some supposed resemblance to the head of that animal'). Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to make observations and to leave a party for observing rockets later fired from the island of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau, Cabo Verde], to be collected later by HMS Barracouta
Going on shore with Thomas Boteler and Edward Johnes to collect plants and 'other objects of natural history'. Going across the island to see the saltpan at the north-east side of the island, a large almost circular hollow covering about half an acre. The saltpan surrounded by hills 'of moderate height', with a pink appearance from above and little or no water in it. The crust of salt over the mud an inch or two thick, of excellent quality and a 'singular' appearance contrasting with the barren and burnt surface of the rest of the island [annotated: 'Mr Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta, later on HMS Leven] measured this basin and found it to contain near 30 acres, 150 feet above the sea' and 'the surface of the salt pan above the level of the sea is 97 feet' and 'Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal] not correct']. Not finding many plants, the only shrub being a species of Gnaphalium, growing 12-18 inches high. Owen being more fortunate and finding one in flower, and giving it to Forbes along with other plants he had collected. Another shrub a species of [annotated: 'Cassia'] growing in the bed of a dry rivulet. The land appearing not to have had any rain for months, with plants burnt up. Being unable to find specimens of the grass with flowers or seeds, and unable to ascertain the principal vegetation on the island, any blades of grass having been eaten by the numerous goats: 'notwithstanding the barrenness of the land, I did not observe the least trace of cultivation in those parts we visited'
The island owned by Mr Marteina [Manuel Antonio Martins, governor of Cabo Verde and Guinea], with about 60 residents. The superintendent or governor living about a mile from the saltpan, but having no time to visit him. The island about 17 miles long and six wide. The only animals being goats, some donkeys and wild cats. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the cats the following day: 'it did not appear to differ in any respect from the domestic cat, only in its habits'. Picking up 'some marine productions' on the shore. A boat being sent for the party at sunset. Seeing insects including one or two species of Gryllus (specimens 1 and 2), collecting specimens. Seeing a species of Tetrao, larger than the common quail, but unable to get near enough to shoot them in the open plains. Procuring specimens of another small bird flying in flocks, tamer than the quails (specimen 1)
(26 Mar 1822) William Owen not intending to sail until the evening. Going on shore to the observation tent at the foot of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain] at the north-west corner of the island. Climbing up the west side of the hill, composed of small particles of burnt earth united together to form a light porous rock breaking off and rolling into the sea. The hill about 620 feet high, with the face towards the sea very steep due to the falling rocks and the waves. The only plant being the orchilla (Lichen rochella) [orchella, Roccella tinctoria], growing 'in all situations where the rocks remain stationary for any length of time' and collected for dyeing on the Cabo Verde Islands and the Canary Islands [Spain], being sent in large quantities to Europe. Finding specimens of a plant (specimen 1) on a flat, sandy piece of ground where the tide flows in stormy weather ('much finer than those I had gathered the day before'), but the dry season being the worst time for visiting
Seeing eagles (Falco ossifragus) [Haliaeetus albicilla] and kites along the coast. Seeing an eagle's nest near the landing place, composed of a quantity of sticks of all sizes, about eight feet across, built level with the ground on a projecting rock, with fish bones, shells and limbs of crabs lying around it, but no eggs or ['no eggs or' crossed out and replaced with 'one'] young ones in it [annotated: 'which Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] shot']. The sticks from the nest 'furnished the gentlemen of the tent who were on shore taking observations with abundance of fuel for their fire for dressing their victuals at a much easier rate than they could possibly have procured it by any other means', without bringing wood from the ship or collecting it themselves: 'it would have been a work of great labour to have got as much as would have boiled a kettle of fish, of which the people in the boats caught abundance in the bay [annotated: 'with hook & line']'. Assuming the birds using driftwood on the beach for building their nests, washed from the other islands, there being no wood on the island. Observing the eagles hunting by watching the boobies (Pelecanus parvus) [unidentified] diving for fish, attacking them before they swallow the fish, catching it in their talons and flying to a nearby rock with their stolen booty. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the eagles, but not being able to preserve it, despite skinning it immediately, it being the moulting season. Noting that the eagles were difficult to kill except with a bullet or 'a whole charge of large shot', staying away from people as they did and being protected by their feathers from small shot. Shooting two hawks (specimen 2), numerous on the island, feeding on the many small lizards
Not finding any plant specimens on the hill. Returning to the rocky beach, covered with the coral Madrepora. Picking up Fucus algae and cuttlefish (Sepia) [Sepiida] (specimen 1 of jar 3): 'this animal which is of a flesh colour spotted with chestnut or liver coloured spots, but on being touched it seemed much irritated and changed its whole colour into a dirty livid white'. Finding a starfish (Asterias) (specimen 1 of jar 2), not having seen one before, and a brilliant scarlet coloured species of Madrepora (specimen 4 of jar 3). Thomas Boteler giving Forbes specimens of several minerals
Returning on board the ship, the recall signal having been hoisted. Sailing towards St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Spending most of the night arranging specimens and preparing to go on shore the following morning. William Owen leaving Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn] and 'one of the young gentlemen' behind to observe the rockets to be fired from St Nicholas. William Owen suggesting Forbes join the party going to St Nicholas, the island being more fertile than the other islands and offering more variety than St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde], where the ship was bound
(27 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Lieutenant William Mudge from HMS Barracouta having joined HMS Leven to accompany the party on the island for firing rockets and taking observations for ascertaining the distance between the islands of St Nicholas, Sal and St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The landing place a shallow bay on the west side of the island. Going on shore with Mudge, Charles Lechmere and others on a boat with provisions for three days. Stiff breeze and rough sea. Taking shoes and stockings off to get through the heavy surf, but having to put them back on reaching the hot sand, 'or our feet would have been blistered in a few minutes'
Dividing up into two parties to search for donkeys to carry the rocket provisions. Lechmere and Mudge finding a house under a projecting rock at the bottom of one of the deep dingles, with a woman 'who on observing them screamed out and ran off as fast as she could'. Seeing a man and asking him for donkeys. Receiving a dozen donkeys two hours later, with an equal number of men to drive and take care of them. Agreeing with them to be taken to the top of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], the highest mountain on the island, to fire the rockets. Arriving at the village of Praia Branca [Sao Nicolau] at sunset: 'I believe every human being in the village was out to see us'. The village consisting of about 30 stone dwellings thatched with reeds (Arundo donax). Pitching a tent above the village in an enclosure among Euphorbia balsamifera and Jatropha curcas trees. Procuring some refreshment and lying down to rest
[Annotated: 'the highest peak of St Nicholas, or Monte Gordo, was a station fixed on by Captain Owen [William Owen] from which to send up some rockets of various sizes to try their uses in measuring differences of longitude. This peak is upwards of seventy geographical miles from the Lion Head at Sal [Lions Head Mountain], where a party was left with Captain Cutfield of the Barracouta [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta] to observe them, and another party under Lieutenant Vidal [Alexander Vidal] was landed in a small cove (called Cat Cove) at the north extremity of St Vincent [Sao Vicente], not more than thirty-five miles distant from the peak. Had this peak's rockets been observed from Sal, St Vincent, distant about 110 miles, and the instances of their explosions marked by their times at each place, on watches previously regulated by the sun at the respective stations, the difference of longitude would have been exactly ascertained within half a second of them & consequently within 50 feet of the time distance would also have resulted thereupon']
(28 Mar 1822) Taking a walk around the camp to search for plants before breakfast. The scenery romantic, with a small run of water supplying the village below the camping place, with bananas and papaws [papaya] planted on the edge of the brook, and vines and cassava on the banks. The vineyards and cassava grounds laid out to be irrigated when required, with stone walls three feet high, a dam in the brook and water directed to run from one step to another. Vines planted and treated similarly, but with a horizontal trellis overhead to which they were trained. Sugar cane grown, but chewed by the locals instead of being made into sugar. Bread being made from cassava root and Indian corn [flint corn]. A plant, possibly a species of Phaseolus, being used for food by the locals. No flowers in season. Acquiring seeds in pods and out of the pod, 'in the state in which they are boiled and eaten by the natives' (specimen 14, seed list). Finding several curious plants
Receiving information that donkeys or assistance from locals would not be available without an order from the governor to the judge of the village, and having to wait for a messenger to inform the governor, living 10 or 12 miles away. In order for William Mudge to fire the rockets in the evening, having to travel 10 miles on a difficult and dangerous road: 'indeed it would have been impossible for the asses to have gone along with anything on their backs, for in many places we were obliged to hold on with our hands and creep on our knees', each man carrying an equal portion. The road running along a narrow passage almost perpendicular across the rock, with 'scarcely a breath of wind and almost a vertical sun'. Temperature 95 degrees in the shade. Several of the party finding it impossible to proceed with the weight. Paying two men working in a vineyard 'a trifling remuneration' for carrying part of the load. Having to leave some of the load behind, with an order for it to be sent when the messenger returned from the governor
Stopping by a spring after about a mile and a half. Finding several pretty plants, including a beautiful Campanula (specimen 35) in the rock crevices. Meeting a man who had been collecting orchilla [orchella] using a stem of Arundo donax 16 feet long with a wooden end cut in the shape of a hand to reach the plant on the rock face [annotated: 'where it was detached by pressing the fingers between its roots and the rocks']. The road becoming more difficult and the day hotter. Resting at the top of the passage at 1pm. Admiring the view from the head of three deep valleys surrounded by steep, rugged mountains and clouds below.
Reaching the village Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] at the foot of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], with about a dozen dwellings. The people being 'very civil' and selling the party eggs, milk, bananas, papayas and sugar cane: 'we made a very hearty meal of these things though not a very comfortable one'. Being given two donkeys to carry luggage and water to the top of the mountain. The road from the village better but the day very hot. Going through woods of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?'
Reaching the summit after three hours. Being pleased to see a man following them with their tent and belongings: 'but for this we should have been obliged to sleep in the open air where the wind was very high and cold at night'. The mountain not forming a peak at the top but having a regular ascent from the bottom and an even surface, leading to its name Monte Gurdo or Fat Mountain. The soil and minerals on it having burnt, resembling small, fragile, porous pieces of cinder baked together. The summit covered in plants, including Buthalmum serecium [Asteriscus sericeus] (specimen 36) and Argemone (specimen 11). Euphorbia not growing above 3,700 feet. Fine views over the whole island. The height of the mountain by the barometer 4,380 feet. Temperature at the top 65°. Pitching the tent on flat ground under the lee of a rock, but being unable to sleep due to the wind blowing dust into their faces from the dry earth. William Mudge not firing the rockets due to the clouds, thinking they might not be seen from the other islands
(29 Mar 1822) Going down to the village to breakfast on tea and sugar brought with them, boiled up in an iron kettle with goat's milk and drunk from cups made of the rind of a pumpkin called callebash [calabash]: 'earthenware seem to be almost unknown here'. Going to search for plants, intending to collect them later. Catching several insects of the commonly found Gryllus [annotated: 'grasshopper or locust'], feeding on vegetables and in particular sugar cane. Seeing a 'poor. John Forbes' travel journal, 4 Feb-18 Aug 1822, describing the journey from England to Portugal, Madeira, Tenerife, Cabo Verde, Brazil and South Africa. The back of the journal records lists of specimens
Overview of contents:
Initial loose leaf with title 'Mr Forbes Journal, Contained in five books'
Pages 1-151: Narrative of travel, 4 Feb-18 Aug 1822
Pages 152-181: Blank
Pages 182-184: 'Seeds, continued', specimens 41-61
Pages 185-187: Blank
Page 188: 'Birds, Delagoa Bay, 1823', specimens 59-62; 'Algoa Bay, 1823', specimens 63-70
Pages 189-191: Blank
Pages 192-194: 'Case of Green Glass Jars No 21'
Pages 195-197: Blank
Page 198: 'Plants in soil'
Page 199: Blank
Pages 200-206: 'Insects, Delagoa Bay'
Page 207: Blank
Pages 208-210: 'Seeds, Delagoa Bay', 'St Mary's Madagascar'
Pages 211-216: 'Birds (Delagoa Bay)', 'Isle of Saint Mary, East Coast Madagascar', 'Mozambique', 'Delagoa Bay 1823'
Pages 217-219: Blank
Page 220: 'Specimens of Rocks, Cape G Hope', 'Rocks Island Saint Mary, East Coast of Madagascar'
Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Covers and pages are all attached but the binding is weak and breaking. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
There is a partial transcript of this volume at RHS Lindley Library, classmark 910(6M)SUT
This journal appears to be Forbes' original journal, written in his hand and with his own pencil annotations. For a copy of entries from 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822, see the second part of Forbes' journal, RHS/Col/3/1/2 (a reference is made on 30 Apr 1822 to a copy of a part of the journal having been sent to London from Brazil, believed to be RHS/Col/3/1/2)
The journal is annotated in pencil by Forbes (unless otherwise indicated), with marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The volume was reversed, with lists of specimens written at the back of the journal
The volume is written on rectos only
The journal contains headings by location. In many places, the exact distances, measures and names were left blank and filled in later in ink or in pencil in the same hand, sometimes with details crossed out and corrected. There are also blank spaces left to be filled, often for specifying the species or name of a specimen of plant or an animal
Original foliation 1-75 is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(4 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in Spithead, having previously brought belongings on board at Woolwich while the ship was being fitted out
(6 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Barracouta to deliver a letter from Mr Brookes [unidentified] to Buchannan [John Buchannan, assistant surgeon on HMS Barracouta], Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven] and Connolly [Thomas Connolly, assistant surgeon on HMS Leven]
(7 Feb 1822) On board all day. Seeing a shoal of porpoises in the bay
(8 Feb 1822) Anchoring at Portsmouth. Going on shore to purchase shot gun flints and 'other necessaries'
(11 Feb 1822) Sailing from Spithead. Passing the 'beautiful and picturesque' Isle of Wight. Anchoring off Cowes
(13 Feb 1822) Sailing from Cowes. Passing through the Needles. Seeing seabirds, possibly shags (Pelecanus gracilis) on the white cliffs: 'imposing appearance'. Passing St Alban's Head. Seeing the light on Portland Point [Portland Bill lighthouse] in the evening
(14 Feb 1822) Losing sight of England with Start Point in Devonshire. A pleasant and uneventful passage
(19 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Finisterre [Spain]
(20 Feb 1822) Passing the town of Vianna [Viana do Castelo, Portugal] at the mouth of the River Lima [Limia, Portugal]. The country to the north of the town hilly, rocky and barren, with cultivated land along the shore. The houses mostly white and low, scattered among the cultivated land and trees. Seeing the Aqueduct of Villa do Condi [Santa Clara Aqueduct, Vila do Conde, Portugal], but being too far away to estimate its length: 'it appeared to be upwards of a mile' [crossed out in pencil: 'I understand it is for the purpose of conveying water to the town']. The coast lower and more open further ahead
(21 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Carveoira (Peniche) [Cabo Carvoeiro, Peniche, Portugal] and Burling's Rocks [Berlengas archipelago, Portugal] five or six miles from the land. Passing the town of Ericeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. The houses mostly white, standing 'apparently without any order or regularity'. Seeing on the hill the famous Church and Convent of Mafra [Portugal], about 820 feet in length, presenting 'a very striking object from the sea'. Coming in sight of Cape Roca [Cabo da Roca, Portugal] with its lofty rugged mountains [some text crossed out and annotated: 'of Cintra [Sintra, Portugal], rendered famous by the circumstances of the late war[?]'] behind it, on the sides of which were situated many villages. The coast from Peniche steep and barren, 'seemed to be well calculated for the geologist', but having no opportunity to examine it. Anchoring at the mouth of the river Tagus [Portugal] in the evening
(22 Feb 1822) The wind changing to easterly gales preventing the ship from getting near the land until the morning [annotated: 'under Cape Espichel [Cabo Espichel, Portugal]']
(23 Feb 1822) The wind more moderate. Taking a pilot on board and proceeding up the river Tagus. Anchoring in the afternoon [annotated: 'to the E [east] of the city']. Boarding a boat to go on shore to deliver a letter to Mr Jeffery [John Jeffery, British consul in Portugal] at Belam [Belem, Lisbon, Portugal]: 'he received me very kindly and promised me every assistance'
Seeing for the first time fences composed of Agave americana 'and the striped variety', growing with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica]. Seeing other trees with a dry, dull appearance, discovering them to be olive (Olea europaea) and cork (Quercus suber) trees, and seeing for the first time in open air some beautiful palm trees (Phoenix dactylifera). Lisbon 'pretty', the houses all of white stone or whitewashed, but with 'a great sameness in it from the want of spires to the churches', the locals being afraid to build them, being afraid of the frequent earthquakes. Seeing Old Lisbon on the other side of the river, destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, a 'sad specimen of the effects of these dreadful phenomena'
(24 Feb 1822) Sunday. Visiting the aqueduct [Aqueduto das Aguas Livres, Lisbon, Portugal]. Discovering its length to be 3,450 feet, with its central arch 180 feet high and 20 feet in span. Seeing groves of orange trees with some fruits remaining, most having been gathered, almond trees in blossom and an Arum and Narcissus bulbocodium in flower. Oranges planted near brooks or in damp locations, being kept damp until the fruit ripened
(25 Feb 1822) Visiting the Botanic Garden at Adjuda [Ajuda, Lisbon]. Intending to deliver a letter to Mr Brotero [Felix de Avelar Brotero, director of the Ajuda Botanical Gardens in Lisbon], but not finding him. Being shown around the garden by the gardener in Brotero's absence. The collection of plants appearing limited and the garden looking 'slovenly'. The lower part of the garden laid out in squares by hedges of sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) but with few plants, 'except what nature sends'. The upper part a terrace with different shapes, squares and triangles, with one species of plants in each division. Seeing at the back a hothouse or old fashioned greenhouse, with plants already familiar in England, Forbes having seen better specimens of most. Seeing some fine specimens of cactus, already common in England
Being shown the museum attached to the garden, with an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals, a zoological collection containing hippopotamus skins from the east coast of Africa and birds from South America ('a good collection but not in a very excellent state of preservation'), a well-preserved and extensive collection of fishes and a good collection of snakes: 'they are arranged without regard to system to please the eye, in cases with glass fronts', exposing them to light. Noting that the new royal palace nearby will be a 'magnificent' building when finished, composed of whitish-yellow polished limestone and with fine paintings in the rooms
(26 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero again but not finding him. Leaving letters and 'the list' for him, and intending to visit again the following morning. Visiting John Jeffery's house, the former residence of Marshal Beresford [William Carr Beresford, general in the British Army and marshal in the Portuguese Army] to see his garden, with plants from Brazil, 'kept in better order than any I have seen about Lisbon'
(27 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero. Finding him infirm with gout and old age: 'he was very kind and offered me plants of anything I wanted'. Being advised to visit Mr Correa [Abbe Jose Correia da Serra, naturalist and diplomat in Portugal]. Delivering a letter to him, and being promised assistance
(28 Feb 1822) Going [annotated: 'Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography], Mr Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] & myself'] across the bay to the other side of the river Tagus [Portugal] to shoot birds. Seeing only a few, common also in England. The land composed of sand covered in vineyards with plants cut and contorted to take root. Seeing pines (Pinus pinea), olives (Olea europaea), myrtles, Erica vulgaris [Calluna vulgaris] and Erica mediterranea [Erica herbacea] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants], no grasses, and corn with a 'meagre appearance'. The trees covered with species of lichen, giving them a 'sickly look'
(1 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden to acquire plants. Felix de Avelar Brotero being unwell and asking Forbes to return the following day
(2 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden. Receiving over 40 kinds of plants and seeds of 23 plants from Felix de Avelar Brotero. Taking the plants to John Jeffery's house to pack them along with Brazilian plants from William Carr Beresford's garden
(3 Mar 1822) Packing plants. Procuring several Portuguese vines, grown for their fruit rather than for making wine
(4 Mar 1822) Preparing to leave Lisbon. Packing up a copy of the first part of this journal. Writing letters to England [annotated: 'and left them with Mr Jeffery, along with the copy of the journal to be forwarded to the secretary of the Society [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society]. Purchasing more camphor. Sailing down the river and anchoring at Belam [Belem]
(5 Mar 1822) Sailing from the Tagus with a fair wind: 'bid adieu to the shores of Europe. For a time after this nothing in particular occurred'
(8 Mar 1822) Passing Porto Santo [Portugal] and Desertas Islands [Portugal]. Anchoring at Madeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. Going on shore with a letter to Mr Veitch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira]. Visiting Veitch's garden. Seeing for the first time in the open ground mango (Mangifera indica), granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis), guava (Psidium pyriferum, Psidium pomiferum) [Psidium guajava], pineapples ('but they look starved and sickly') and tamarind (Tamarindus indicus) [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. In another garden 'belonging to a Portuguese gentleman', seeing cocoa nut [coconut] (Cocos nucifera) and alligator pear (Laurus persea) [avocado, Laurus americana]. Boarding the ship to prepare for a trip to the interior of the island the following day
(9 Mar 1822) Leaving Funchal [Madeira] with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] and some other officers from the ship for the village of Camera de Lobos [Camara de Lobos, Madeira]. Staying at Henry Veitch's house overnight.
Mostly vines being cultivated, with only the south side of the island producing fine wine [annotated: 'remarks on the culture of the vine']. Planting of vines involving 'great pains' with trenching of the ground to a depth of three or four feet [annotated: 'and sometimes even as deep as seven feet, to a foundation of solid lava'], planting two- or three-year old plants at the bottom and making a horizontal trellis of the stalks of Arundo donax overhead, to which the vines are trained. The vineyards being situated to take advantage of the water and the hilly location with streams of water available in dry weather. The vines planted in rows four feet apart with plants two feet apart within the rows and no manure used.
Seeing along the roadsides and in the hedges two species of cactus, Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and humilis [Opuntia tuna], and in the damp ground near the brooks [annotated: 'eddoe or'] Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta], one of the chief vegetables on the island, planted eight or nine inches apart and covered in water to discourage weeds, being dug up after 10 months and the larger tubers selected. Bananas (Musa sapientum) cultivated in similar locations, producing fine fruits. The largest trees being Laurus indica [Persea indica] and foetens [Ocotea foetens] and chestnut (Castanea vesca).
Arriving in the evening at the Jardin [Quinta Jardim da Serra, Veitch's house], beautifully located at the top of a deep valley. Staying for the night. Setting out in the morning for the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras, Madeira] [annotated: 'Curral is a Portuguese word signifying a fold, or sheep fold, & this part here named the Coral may be supposed to resemble one, being a very deep valley surrounded on all sides by stupendous mountains']
(10 Mar 1822) Leaving Henry Veitch's house in the morning [annotated: 'intending to ascend the highest peak']: 'the road now became very indifferent'. The main shrubs being some species of Rubus and the common broom (Spartium scoparium) [Scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius]. Stopping for views at 3,994 feet above sea level: 'the sight was sublime', with clouds beneath and the tops of the rugged mountains above them. The rocks covered with Lycopodium hispidum [Selaginella hispida] (specimen 11) and Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], with trees of Laurus foetens [Ocotea foetens] and Erica viridipurpurea [Erica erigena], some two feet in diameter. Reaching an altitude of 4,271 feet. Descending into the Valley of the Curral [Curral das Freiras] by a rugged, almost perpendicular road cut in the mountain, crossing a brook and ascending a similar road on the other side, cut on the face of the damp rock. Collecting specimens and plants of Adiantum reniforme. Reaching the top of the hill between 4pm and 5pm. Returning to Funchal at 7pm. Seeing a few birds, also common in England, and not many insects
(11 Mar 1822) Arranging the plants collected the previous day and planting them in Henry Veitch's garden. Collecting seeds and flowers from the garden for botanical lectures on board
(12 Mar 1822) Visiting Mr Keear's[?] garden. Seeing many fine plants, including Bignonia pandorea [Pandorea pandorana], Bignonia capreolata, Solandra grandiflora and Passiflora incarnata [Passiflora edulis] in flower. Collecting more flowers for the lectures on board. Writing letters to leave with Henry Veitch. Preparing to leave Madeira the following morning
(13 Mar 1822) Sailing from Funchal in the morning with a light breeze. Losing sight of Madeira during the night
(15 Mar 1822) Passing the islands of Alegranza [Spain] and Lancerota [Lanzarote, Spain] to the east in the afternoon. The islands appearing barren and 'incapable of cultivation, being nothing but bare rocks'
(16 Mar 1822) Passing the island of Forteventura [Fuerteventura, Spain]. Coming in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain], seeing the Peak [Pico del Teide, Tenerife] covered in snow. Anchoring at 7pm
(17 Mar 1822) Going on shore to make arrangements with the vice-consul [John Duplan, British vice-consul in Tenerife] to visit the interior of the island the following day. Staying on board the ship and preparing for an early start in the morning
(18 Mar 1822) Going on shore at 6.30am for breakfast. Proceeding towards the town of Laguna [La Laguna, Tenerife], about one and a half miles from Santa Cruz [Tenerife]. Going up a deep narrow valley with banks covered with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and Agave americana. Collecting plants and catching several species of insects. Birds scarce in that part of the island. The land well cultivated with two or three crops per year, but not many vineyards. Arriving at Laguna for refreshments for the party and the horses. Returning to Santa Cruz at 8pm
(19 Mar 1822) Visiting gardens near Santa Cruz: 'horticulture is but little attended to', with few plants in the gardens. Recruiting Mr Lorenzo Pastor [Lorenzo Pastor Castro] as a Horticultural Society correspondent [annotated: 'Mr Pastor is an enlightened merchant, who has visited most parts of North America, well informed on all subjects of natural history and has made some excellent collections, his correspondence likely [to] be beneficial to the society']
(20 Mar 1822) Writing letters and delivering them to the vice-consul John Duplan. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(22 Mar 1822) Latitude 24°9'N. Seeing the first sea nettles or Portuguese men of war (Medusa caravella) [Physalia physalis]. Catching two and preserving them in spirits. Touching the tentacles causing a stinging sensation similar to that of 'cowitch' [annotated: 'cowage'], making everyone afraid to touch them, but some sailors suffering for their curiosity. Some of the tentacles up to 12 feet long but so fragile that it was impossible to preserve one of such length [annotated: 'No 1 of No 1 jar']. Crossing the Tropic of Cancer in the evening
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing the first flying fish (Exocoetus volitans), a tropical bird Phaeton aethereus [Phaethon aethereus] and some stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagieasus) [Hydrobates pelagicus], generally considered an omen for bad weather by sailors. The weather continuing fine. Seeing large numbers of Medusa caravella [Physalia physalis]
(25 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of Sal [Republic of Cabo Verde]: 'certainly the barrenest of any of this groups of islands we visited'. Anchoring south-east of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain, Sal] ('so called from some supposed resemblance to the head of that animal'). Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to make observations and to leave a party for observing rockets later fired from the island of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau, Cabo Verde], to be collected later by HMS Barracouta
Going on shore with Thomas Boteler and Edward Johnes to collect plants and 'other objects of natural history'. Going across the island to see the saltpan at the north-east side of the island, a large almost circular hollow covering about half an acre. The saltpan surrounded by hills 'of moderate height', with a pink appearance from above and little or no water in it. The crust of salt over the mud an inch or two thick, of excellent quality and a 'singular' appearance contrasting with the barren and burnt surface of the rest of the island [annotated: 'Mr Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta, later on HMS Leven] measured this basin and found it to contain near 30 acres, 150 feet above the sea' and 'the surface of the salt pan above the level of the sea is 97 feet' and 'Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal] not correct']. Not finding many plants, the only shrub being a species of Gnaphalium, growing 12-18 inches high. Owen being more fortunate and finding one in flower, and giving it to Forbes along with other plants he had collected. Another shrub a species of [annotated: 'Cassia'] growing in the bed of a dry rivulet. The land appearing not to have had any rain for months, with plants burnt up. Being unable to find specimens of the grass with flowers or seeds, and unable to ascertain the principal vegetation on the island, any blades of grass having been eaten by the numerous goats: 'notwithstanding the barrenness of the land, I did not observe the least trace of cultivation in those parts we visited'
The island owned by Mr Marteina [Manuel Antonio Martins, governor of Cabo Verde and Guinea], with about 60 residents. The superintendent or governor living about a mile from the saltpan, but having no time to visit him. The island about 17 miles long and six wide. The only animals being goats, some donkeys and wild cats. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the cats the following day: 'it did not appear to differ in any respect from the domestic cat, only in its habits'. Picking up 'some marine productions' on the shore. A boat being sent for the party at sunset. Seeing insects including one or two species of Gryllus (specimens 1 and 2), collecting specimens. Seeing a species of Tetrao, larger than the common quail, but unable to get near enough to shoot them in the open plains. Procuring specimens of another small bird flying in flocks, tamer than the quails (specimen 1)
(26 Mar 1822) William Owen not intending to sail until the evening. Going on shore to the observation tent at the foot of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain] at the north-west corner of the island. Climbing up the west side of the hill, composed of small particles of burnt earth united together to form a light porous rock breaking off and rolling into the sea. The hill about 620 feet high, with the face towards the sea very steep due to the falling rocks and the waves. The only plant being the orchilla (Lichen rochella) [orchella, Roccella tinctoria], growing 'in all situations where the rocks remain stationary for any length of time' and collected for dyeing on the Cabo Verde Islands and the Canary Islands [Spain], being sent in large quantities to Europe. Finding specimens of a plant (specimen 1) on a flat, sandy piece of ground where the tide flows in stormy weather ('much finer than those I had gathered the day before'), but the dry season being the worst time for visiting
Seeing eagles (Falco ossifragus) [Haliaeetus albicilla] and kites along the coast. Seeing an eagle's nest near the landing place, composed of a quantity of sticks of all sizes, about eight feet across, built level with the ground on a projecting rock, with fish bones, shells and limbs of crabs lying around it, but no eggs or ['no eggs or' crossed out and replaced with 'one'] young ones in it [annotated: 'which Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] shot']. The sticks from the nest 'furnished the gentlemen of the tent who were on shore taking observations with abundance of fuel for their fire for dressing their victuals at a much easier rate than they could possibly have procured it by any other means', without bringing wood from the ship or collecting it themselves: 'it would have been a work of great labour to have got as much as would have boiled a kettle of fish, of which the people in the boats caught abundance in the bay [annotated: 'with hook & line']'. Assuming the birds using driftwood on the beach for building their nests, washed from the other islands, there being no wood on the island. Observing the eagles hunting by watching the boobies (Pelecanus parvus) [unidentified] diving for fish, attacking them before they swallow the fish, catching it in their talons and flying to a nearby rock with their stolen booty. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the eagles, but not being able to preserve it, despite skinning it immediately, it being the moulting season. Noting that the eagles were difficult to kill except with a bullet or 'a whole charge of large shot', staying away from people as they did and being protected by their feathers from small shot. Shooting two hawks (specimen 2), numerous on the island, feeding on the many small lizards
Not finding any plant specimens on the hill. Returning to the rocky beach, covered with the coral Madrepora. Picking up Fucus algae and cuttlefish (Sepia) [Sepiida] (specimen 1 of jar 3): 'this animal which is of a flesh colour spotted with chestnut or liver coloured spots, but on being touched it seemed much irritated and changed its whole colour into a dirty livid white'. Finding a starfish (Asterias) (specimen 1 of jar 2), not having seen one before, and a brilliant scarlet coloured species of Madrepora (specimen 4 of jar 3). Thomas Boteler giving Forbes specimens of several minerals
Returning on board the ship, the recall signal having been hoisted. Sailing towards St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Spending most of the night arranging specimens and preparing to go on shore the following morning. William Owen leaving Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn] and 'one of the young gentlemen' behind to observe the rockets to be fired from St Nicholas. William Owen suggesting Forbes join the party going to St Nicholas, the island being more fertile than the other islands and offering more variety than St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde], where the ship was bound
(27 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Lieutenant William Mudge from HMS Barracouta having joined HMS Leven to accompany the party on the island for firing rockets and taking observations for ascertaining the distance between the islands of St Nicholas, Sal and St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The landing place a shallow bay on the west side of the island. Going on shore with Mudge, Charles Lechmere and others on a boat with provisions for three days. Stiff breeze and rough sea. Taking shoes and stockings off to get through the heavy surf, but having to put them back on reaching the hot sand, 'or our feet would have been blistered in a few minutes'
Dividing up into two parties to search for donkeys to carry the rocket provisions. Lechmere and Mudge finding a house under a projecting rock at the bottom of one of the deep dingles, with a woman 'who on observing them screamed out and ran off as fast as she could'. Seeing a man and asking him for donkeys. Receiving a dozen donkeys two hours later, with an equal number of men to drive and take care of them. Agreeing with them to be taken to the top of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], the highest mountain on the island, to fire the rockets. Arriving at the village of Praia Branca [Sao Nicolau] at sunset: 'I believe every human being in the village was out to see us'. The village consisting of about 30 stone dwellings thatched with reeds (Arundo donax). Pitching a tent above the village in an enclosure among Euphorbia balsamifera and Jatropha curcas trees. Procuring some refreshment and lying down to rest
[Annotated: 'the highest peak of St Nicholas, or Monte Gordo, was a station fixed on by Captain Owen [William Owen] from which to send up some rockets of various sizes to try their uses in measuring differences of longitude. This peak is upwards of seventy geographical miles from the Lion Head at Sal [Lions Head Mountain], where a party was left with Captain Cutfield of the Barracouta [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta] to observe them, and another party under Lieutenant Vidal [Alexander Vidal] was landed in a small cove (called Cat Cove) at the north extremity of St Vincent [Sao Vicente], not more than thirty-five miles distant from the peak. Had this peak's rockets been observed from Sal, St Vincent, distant about 110 miles, and the instances of their explosions marked by their times at each place, on watches previously regulated by the sun at the respective stations, the difference of longitude would have been exactly ascertained within half a second of them & consequently within 50 feet of the time distance would also have resulted thereupon']
(28 Mar 1822) Taking a walk around the camp to search for plants before breakfast. The scenery romantic, with a small run of water supplying the village below the camping place, with bananas and papaws [papaya] planted on the edge of the brook, and vines and cassava on the banks. The vineyards and cassava grounds laid out to be irrigated when required, with stone walls three feet high, a dam in the brook and water directed to run from one step to another. Vines planted and treated similarly, but with a horizontal trellis overhead to which they were trained. Sugar cane grown, but chewed by the locals instead of being made into sugar. Bread being made from cassava root and Indian corn [flint corn]. A plant, possibly a species of Phaseolus, being used for food by the locals. No flowers in season. Acquiring seeds in pods and out of the pod, 'in the state in which they are boiled and eaten by the natives' (specimen 14, seed list). Finding several curious plants
Receiving information that donkeys or assistance from locals would not be available without an order from the governor to the judge of the village, and having to wait for a messenger to inform the governor, living 10 or 12 miles away. In order for William Mudge to fire the rockets in the evening, having to travel 10 miles on a difficult and dangerous road: 'indeed it would have been impossible for the asses to have gone along with anything on their backs, for in many places we were obliged to hold on with our hands and creep on our knees', each man carrying an equal portion. The road running along a narrow passage almost perpendicular across the rock, with 'scarcely a breath of wind and almost a vertical sun'. Temperature 95 degrees in the shade. Several of the party finding it impossible to proceed with the weight. Paying two men working in a vineyard 'a trifling remuneration' for carrying part of the load. Having to leave some of the load behind, with an order for it to be sent when the messenger returned from the governor
Stopping by a spring after about a mile and a half. Finding several pretty plants, including a beautiful Campanula (specimen 35) in the rock crevices. Meeting a man who had been collecting orchilla [orchella] using a stem of Arundo donax 16 feet long with a wooden end cut in the shape of a hand to reach the plant on the rock face [annotated: 'where it was detached by pressing the fingers between its roots and the rocks']. The road becoming more difficult and the day hotter. Resting at the top of the passage at 1pm. Admiring the view from the head of three deep valleys surrounded by steep, rugged mountains and clouds below.
Reaching the village Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] at the foot of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], with about a dozen dwellings. The people being 'very civil' and selling the party eggs, milk, bananas, papayas and sugar cane: 'we made a very hearty meal of these things though not a very comfortable one'. Being given two donkeys to carry luggage and water to the top of the mountain. The road from the village better but the day very hot. Going through woods of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?'
Reaching the summit after three hours. Being pleased to see a man following them with their tent and belongings: 'but for this we should have been obliged to sleep in the open air where the wind was very high and cold at night'. The mountain not forming a peak at the top but having a regular ascent from the bottom and an even surface, leading to its name Monte Gurdo or Fat Mountain. The soil and minerals on it having burnt, resembling small, fragile, porous pieces of cinder baked together. The summit covered in plants, including Buthalmum serecium [Asteriscus sericeus] (specimen 36) and Argemone (specimen 11). Euphorbia not growing above 3,700 feet. Fine views over the whole island. The height of the mountain by the barometer 4,380 feet. Temperature at the top 65°. Pitching the tent on flat ground under the lee of a rock, but being unable to sleep due to the wind blowing dust into their faces from the dry earth. William Mudge not firing the rockets due to the clouds, thinking they might not be seen from the other islands
(29 Mar 1822) Going down to the village to breakfast on tea and sugar brought with them, boiled up in an iron kettle with goat's milk and drunk from cups made of the rind of a pumpkin called callebash [calabash]: 'earthenware seem to be almost unknown here'. Going to search for plants, intending to collect them later. Catching several insects of the commonly found Gryllus [annotated: 'grasshopper or locust'], feeding on vegetables and in particular sugar cane. Seeing a 'poor
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