Journals of John Forbes: Journal 7
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 7
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/7
Date - 15 Mar-1 Apr 1823
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 15 Mar-1 Apr 1823, in Mozambique and South Africa. The journal begins mid-entry, continuing from RHS/Col/3/1/6
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-13: Narrative of travel, 15 Mar-1 Apr 1823
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '6. Journal, March 15th to April 1st 1823'. The binding is coming loose and pages are flaking slightly along the spine. Some pages are loose inside the covers. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
For another version of the journal, 12 Feb-1 Apr 1823, see RHS/Col/3/1/8
The volume is written in Forbes' hand, on rectos only. There are no annotations
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(15 Mar 1823) [Shefean Island [Ilhas Xefina, Mozambique]] covered with mud. Seeing different species of mangrove trees (Rhizophora), with other plants ('such as are') common in the nearby areas, the island having been joined to the mainland at the eastern end, now with 'just room' for a boat at low tide. At sunset, preparing to leave and seeing 'something like the body of a hippopotamus' floating in the water. On closer inspection, finding it to be a grampus (Delphinus orca) [orca, Orcinus orca]. Returning on board the Barracouta at 8pm. Sleeping on board
(16 Mar 1823) Going on board the Leven at 6am with Captain Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta]. Sailing across the bay at 9am with the Barracouta, the Cockburn, and the ships Sincapore [Singapore] and the Orange Grovevolum [British merchant ships]. Shortly afterwards taking the Sincapore in tow. 'Some remarks on fever[?]'
(19 Mar 1823) Going along the coast near the River St Lucia [South Africa], the part of the coast from Fisher's River [?Mdloti River or Tongati River, South Africa] to St John [Port St Johns, South Africa] not having been surveyed by the Leven or the Barracouta. Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to finish the survey, and having the opportunity to do so, continuing the survey until 23 Mar. Stopping for the night about 70 miles from Port St Johns. Reaching the mouth of St John's River [Mzimvubu River or Umzimvubu River, South Africa] the following morning. The currents strong all along the coast, but in particular north-east of the river, flowing at a rate of six miles per hour. The current having set them off course, leaving the surveying for the Barracouta to finish
The country from Fisher's River to Port St Johns 'very fine, far exceeding anything we have seen on the African Coast, or I believe anything that exists', diverse with hills, dales, woods and water. The soil ('as well as we could judge') seeming rich and healthy, with a climate suitable for any vegetation. 'It is not a little surprising how this fine & interesting part of the coast should have been so long overlooked by European settlers', appearing to have 'a great deal more to recommend' it than the coast further north or south. The greatest obstacle appearing to be the lack of a good port or anchorage. Ridges of hills rising gradually one behind the other from the sea, with the farthest ridge seeming to be 5,000-6,000 feet above sea level, with many of the mountains 'the kind called tableland', common in Africa. The chain of mountains, first seen near Algoa Bay [South Africa] 20 or 30 miles from the shore, running almost parallel with the coast, coming close to the coast at St John's River [Mzimvubu River], the river breaking through them 'in a deep chasm, presenting the finest landscape on this coast'. The mountains then running northwards, and at about 28°45' being 'either lost altogether', or not visible from the sea. Continuing to sail along the coast
(24 Mar 1823) Passing the mouth of the Great Fish River [South Africa], Bushman's River [South Africa] and Cowey's [Kowie River, South Africa], the rivers in the present dry season containing little water, although in the rainy season swelling 'to a considerable size'. All the rivers having bars at the mouth, but Cowey's 'will admit vessels of a small draught of water'. Coming in sight of Cape Padron [Cape Padrone, South Africa] at sunset at the north-east entrance into Algoa Bay. The winds becoming 'light and baffling', having to stay out on the open sea. At sunset the sky having 'a rich, fiery appearance', seeing a fog bank to the south-west, 'which we should have taken for land, had we not known that none existed in that direction'. The wind gradually increasing from the south-west, blowing fresh at midnight and continuing to blow the following day
(25 Mar 1823) Reaching the land near Algoa Bay, but with a gale blowing, staying off the coast. The wind increasing from the west and the south-west: 'a very tempestuous sea, occasionally breaking over the ship'
(26 Mar 1823) The wind gradually subsiding into 'a fine breeze', having split several of the sails but done no other material damage. The rolling of the ship shifting everything from its place inside, with the water getting in at the ports and hatches ('in spite of every precaution'), damaging items in the ship
(27 Mar 1823) Sailing towards the coast. Coming in sight of land near Algoa Bay at 11am. Seeing a large ship anchored. Finding it to be a Dutchman [a Dutch East India Company ship]. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4.30pm, aided by a fine south-easterly wind. The commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick, South Africa], coming on board and returning soon on shore 'to send off the letters that are at the port office here for us'. Going on shore with some other people in the evening to prepare for an early morning excursion
(28 Mar 1823) Making a short excursion before breakfast. Finding a few plants. Attempting to find roots of several Orchideae, which had been in flower the previous September, searching for several hours but being unable to find any of them, there being fewer plants in the dry season. Finding specimens 'of about a score'. Not having time to collect more, William Owen intending to sail in the evening. Seeing four merchant ships, one of which was stranded, 'a new brig direct from London with provisions', having been driven on shore from its moorings by a strong north-easterly gale. The little port having 'a good deal of business going on', with 'that bustle & activity peculiar to the English, which bears a striking contrast with the dull, indifferent manner in which commerce is carried on at any of the Portuguese establishments'. The crops in this part of the colony having been 'partially better this season', but 'far from being generally good'. Finding the refreshments obtainable 'much superior' to any other places they had visited
(29 Mar 1823) Weighing anchor at dawn, but unable to sail until 11am due to light winds. Sailing for Simon's Bay [South Africa]
(31 Mar 1823) Between one and two leagues from the coast near Cape Blaze [Cape St Blaize, Mossel Bay, South Africa], passing through 'vast streaks of spawn' the colour of brick dust, composed of 'immense numbers of small, transparent, irregular, round & sometimes kidney-shaped globules, about 1/20 of an inch in diameter. In the centre was a small brown opaque spot, which was certainly the animal in a state of embryo & most probably a species of medusa'. The spawn covering the surface of the water for miles, denser in some places than others
(1 Apr 1823) Becalmed almost the whole day. Catching an 'abundance of excellent fish' in 50 fathoms of water. William Owen ordering a boat for them to go and shoot birds, numerous around the ship, in particular black petrels (Procellaria equinoctiali) [white-chinned petrel, Procellaria aequinoctialis], stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [Hydrobates pelagicus] and gannets (Pelecanus bassanus variety) [Morus bassanus]. Shooting two black petrels, one stormy petrel and one gannet, 'but the feathers were so much bloodied that it was spoiled for skinning'. Passing through more spawn or animalculae [microscopic animals]. After nightfall, with a light breeze, the phosphorous light illuminating the ship like a fire. Seeing more spawn here than anywhere else. John Forbes' travel journal, 15 Mar-1 Apr 1823, in Mozambique and South Africa. The journal begins mid-entry, continuing from RHS/Col/3/1/6
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-13: Narrative of travel, 15 Mar-1 Apr 1823
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '6. Journal, March 15th to April 1st 1823'. The binding is coming loose and pages are flaking slightly along the spine. Some pages are loose inside the covers. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
For another version of the journal, 12 Feb-1 Apr 1823, see RHS/Col/3/1/8
The volume is written in Forbes' hand, on rectos only. There are no annotations
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(15 Mar 1823) [Shefean Island [Ilhas Xefina, Mozambique]] covered with mud. Seeing different species of mangrove trees (Rhizophora), with other plants ('such as are') common in the nearby areas, the island having been joined to the mainland at the eastern end, now with 'just room' for a boat at low tide. At sunset, preparing to leave and seeing 'something like the body of a hippopotamus' floating in the water. On closer inspection, finding it to be a grampus (Delphinus orca) [orca, Orcinus orca]. Returning on board the Barracouta at 8pm. Sleeping on board
(16 Mar 1823) Going on board the Leven at 6am with Captain Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta]. Sailing across the bay at 9am with the Barracouta, the Cockburn, and the ships Sincapore [Singapore] and the Orange Grovevolum [British merchant ships]. Shortly afterwards taking the Sincapore in tow. 'Some remarks on fever[?]'
(19 Mar 1823) Going along the coast near the River St Lucia [South Africa], the part of the coast from Fisher's River [?Mdloti River or Tongati River, South Africa] to St John [Port St Johns, South Africa] not having been surveyed by the Leven or the Barracouta. Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to finish the survey, and having the opportunity to do so, continuing the survey until 23 Mar. Stopping for the night about 70 miles from Port St Johns. Reaching the mouth of St John's River [Mzimvubu River or Umzimvubu River, South Africa] the following morning. The currents strong all along the coast, but in particular north-east of the river, flowing at a rate of six miles per hour. The current having set them off course, leaving the surveying for the Barracouta to finish
The country from Fisher's River to Port St Johns 'very fine, far exceeding anything we have seen on the African Coast, or I believe anything that exists', diverse with hills, dales, woods and water. The soil ('as well as we could judge') seeming rich and healthy, with a climate suitable for any vegetation. 'It is not a little surprising how this fine & interesting part of the coast should have been so long overlooked by European settlers', appearing to have 'a great deal more to recommend' it than the coast further north or south. The greatest obstacle appearing to be the lack of a good port or anchorage. Ridges of hills rising gradually one behind the other from the sea, with the farthest ridge seeming to be 5,000-6,000 feet above sea level, with many of the mountains 'the kind called tableland', common in Africa. The chain of mountains, first seen near Algoa Bay [South Africa] 20 or 30 miles from the shore, running almost parallel with the coast, coming close to the coast at St John's River [Mzimvubu River], the river breaking through them 'in a deep chasm, presenting the finest landscape on this coast'. The mountains then running northwards, and at about 28°45' being 'either lost altogether', or not visible from the sea. Continuing to sail along the coast
(24 Mar 1823) Passing the mouth of the Great Fish River [South Africa], Bushman's River [South Africa] and Cowey's [Kowie River, South Africa], the rivers in the present dry season containing little water, although in the rainy season swelling 'to a considerable size'. All the rivers having bars at the mouth, but Cowey's 'will admit vessels of a small draught of water'. Coming in sight of Cape Padron [Cape Padrone, South Africa] at sunset at the north-east entrance into Algoa Bay. The winds becoming 'light and baffling', having to stay out on the open sea. At sunset the sky having 'a rich, fiery appearance', seeing a fog bank to the south-west, 'which we should have taken for land, had we not known that none existed in that direction'. The wind gradually increasing from the south-west, blowing fresh at midnight and continuing to blow the following day
(25 Mar 1823) Reaching the land near Algoa Bay, but with a gale blowing, staying off the coast. The wind increasing from the west and the south-west: 'a very tempestuous sea, occasionally breaking over the ship'
(26 Mar 1823) The wind gradually subsiding into 'a fine breeze', having split several of the sails but done no other material damage. The rolling of the ship shifting everything from its place inside, with the water getting in at the ports and hatches ('in spite of every precaution'), damaging items in the ship
(27 Mar 1823) Sailing towards the coast. Coming in sight of land near Algoa Bay at 11am. Seeing a large ship anchored. Finding it to be a Dutchman [a Dutch East India Company ship]. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4.30pm, aided by a fine south-easterly wind. The commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick, South Africa], coming on board and returning soon on shore 'to send off the letters that are at the port office here for us'. Going on shore with some other people in the evening to prepare for an early morning excursion
(28 Mar 1823) Making a short excursion before breakfast. Finding a few plants. Attempting to find roots of several Orchideae, which had been in flower the previous September, searching for several hours but being unable to find any of them, there being fewer plants in the dry season. Finding specimens 'of about a score'. Not having time to collect more, William Owen intending to sail in the evening. Seeing four merchant ships, one of which was stranded, 'a new brig direct from London with provisions', having been driven on shore from its moorings by a strong north-easterly gale. The little port having 'a good deal of business going on', with 'that bustle & activity peculiar to the English, which bears a striking contrast with the dull, indifferent manner in which commerce is carried on at any of the Portuguese establishments'. The crops in this part of the colony having been 'partially better this season', but 'far from being generally good'. Finding the refreshments obtainable 'much superior' to any other places they had visited
(29 Mar 1823) Weighing anchor at dawn, but unable to sail until 11am due to light winds. Sailing for Simon's Bay [South Africa]
(31 Mar 1823) Between one and two leagues from the coast near Cape Blaze [Cape St Blaize, Mossel Bay, South Africa], passing through 'vast streaks of spawn' the colour of brick dust, composed of 'immense numbers of small, transparent, irregular, round & sometimes kidney-shaped globules, about 1/20 of an inch in diameter. In the centre was a small brown opaque spot, which was certainly the animal in a state of embryo & most probably a species of medusa'. The spawn covering the surface of the water for miles, denser in some places than others
(1 Apr 1823) Becalmed almost the whole day. Catching an 'abundance of excellent fish' in 50 fathoms of water. William Owen ordering a boat for them to go and shoot birds, numerous around the ship, in particular black petrels (Procellaria equinoctiali) [white-chinned petrel, Procellaria aequinoctialis], stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [Hydrobates pelagicus] and gannets (Pelecanus bassanus variety) [Morus bassanus]. Shooting two black petrels, one stormy petrel and one gannet, 'but the feathers were so much bloodied that it was spoiled for skinning'. Passing through more spawn or animalculae [microscopic animals]. After nightfall, with a light breeze, the phosphorous light illuminating the ship like a fire. Seeing more spawn here than anywhere else
Extent - 1 volume
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)